Sunday, April 27, 2008

Climbing Wall Award (CWA) and Abseil Module Training

This weekend was mostly spent at the EICA under the excellent instruction of Nick Crawshaw and Euan Whittaker. Apparently this was the first CWA training course to be run in Scotland. I had put in a fair amount of hours with the GWC Climbing Club over the last few months and felt I had learned a great deal from watching the instructors teach the kids. This made me keen to get more involved with things and then I read online that the CWA was being introduced as an award scheme and that there would be a training course at the EICA. So I signed up straight away; keen to learn all that I could.
It was good to meet new folk that were also keen on climbing. There were a great mix of experience and knowledge in our group. A few were taking the training for similar reasons to me, and others were hoping to make a living by becoming full time climbing instructors. I think it was fair to say that I was one of the least experienced, but that didn't bother me at all; I was keen to learn from the others in the group too. We spent the first day at the EICA looking at group management, belaying, games, various belay devices and we also did some personal lead climbing. As part of the training, we needed to visit another climbing venue; so we headed across town to Meadowbank Climbing Wall. I have to say that this was nothing like any climbing wall I had ever seen before, but very interesting to see how indoor walls have progressed. It was basically a brick wall made from... well... bricks... and mortor, just like the wall of a building. Various bricks were missing or protruding to make surprisingly good hand and foot holds. We joked that this is where house burglars must train, as it was like scaling the walls to break into a building! Joking aside, this turned out to be a great little venue and I learned alot from it. We looked at the anchors, how the ropes were set up, load rating stickers and a little bit of Abseiling. There were large rings located in the floor at the bottom of the wall and we were shown how to belay from them using an Italian (Munter) hitch; an excellent technique I thought.
The next day we were back at the EICA; with the aim at perfecting the set up of abseils indoors. I had climbed outdoors with Richard before and had also seen him set up an abseil at a crag before and he had said to me that the principals were the same, but the anchors would be different. I didn't really have a clue about what to do at the top of a climb outdoors or how to rig a proper abseil so I was very keen to be shown how to do it. To my surprise, it wasn't too difficult or complicated but very important to break it down and follow each step at a time. As expected, the anchors used indoors are always specific, fixed anchors. A bit more practice and a mock assessment concluded a very useful two days. Many thanks to Nick and Euan for a great two days training.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

GWC Staff Climbing at Traprain Law

We had a free session in the GWC Climbing Club schedule. The previous Wednesday had been the last in the current block but there was still another Wednesday before term ended. It was decided that to put it to good use, we should have a 'staff jolly'. The original plan was to simply head to the EICA but with the longer summer evenings now upon us and the weather looking good, it was decided that we should take the opportunity to do a bit of 'trading' outside. This really excited me, as I had never climed outside 'properly' before. Until now, most of my climbing experience had been on plastic and indoors.
We managed to get sorted and leave school pretty sharp without too much faffing. It wasn't long before our mini bus was on the other side of Haddington and we were gearing up after the short approach to Traprain Law. It really was a lovely evening in East Lothian; perfect conditions for climbing. I had been climbing fairly well and regularly over the last couple of months and I knew Jamie had been climbing a lot too and had also been doing some trading quite recently. It was decided that we would pair up, as he fancied doing something more challenging than the others. I said I would try and follow him up anything; I'd give it a good go anyway. Jamie started up Pinch (HS*), and was very quickly at the top and grining down at me. Jamie had given me a quick brief and a nut key. I had an idea about what to do with it but never actually used one before. I started up the rock face with feelings of what felt like nerves but also excitement. I had been watching Jamie very closely so I had an idea of the line, what moves would be needed and where he stood to place the gear. The first bit was straight up and fairly straightforward and, to my surprise, the first nut came out rather easily just by pulling it up in the opposite direction. The next bit of gear was up and to the left; in under the lip of the small overhang. I reached up and removed the cam with ease. It was then I hit the first snag... traversing left under the overhang, I couldn't quite reach up high enough to remove the bomber nut that I saw Jamie place on his lead. I had watched him reach up as high as he could to place it and I remember thinking that I probably would be short of that by quite a way. I had no option but to climb on until I was level with it and then try to remove it from a more difficult stance. I got along side the gear but didn't really have anything good for my feet to stand on; one was on a tiny edge and the other was simply smearing against the polished Trachyte. I pulled up on the nut but it just wasn't shifting. Being in that strenuous position for over a minute, I had to take a rest on the rope. "Bomber, that one, eh?" Jamie shouts down. Knackered, I just looked up at him and chuckled. Standing up again, I climbed a little higher and grabbed the quickdraw from above. Now with a more comfortable stance, I pulled up on the gear as hard as I could. It popped out of the crack to my delight. With the crux of the overhang conquered, the remainder was fairly easy and I didn't have any more problems removing the remaining bits of gear. A grinning Jamie greeted me at the top. I knew he could tell  by the look on my face that I had loved every moment, even when I was struggling to get the gear out.
My first proper experience of trading... well chuffed.
Topos of Traprain Law can be downloaded here.