Thursday, April 30, 2009

Edinburgh to North Berwick Cycle

Today I managed to get away from the desk and take in the East Lothian coastal route to North Berwick. The GWC Cycling Project was only a few weeks away and we needed to put the kids and their machines through their paces. It was also an opportunity for them to get an idea about what  'proper' day on the road bike would be like... for 10 days on the trot!
We assembled at the Commonwealth Pool around 9am and made a final check of the kids' bikes. The rain had stayed away but it was rather chilly and overcast; not a bad day for cycling actually. Lewis lead the way into Hollyrood Park and onto the cycle path towards Duddingston. We must have looked like some kind of caterpillar, as we snaked our way through the park. We continued on to Musselburgh; following the Niddrie Burn and Brunstane Burn before joining the A199. Soon, we turned off the main road and followed the coast through Prestonpans and passed Cockenzie Power Station (not the prettiest of views!). We paused for a breather at Aberlady to regroup and have a brief chat. The kids were doing great and were hardly spread out at all. Much to our relief, all of their bikes were also holding up nicely. I set off at the from this time and was told to try and set a decent pace to see how the kids coped. I was rather nervous at this prospect because I knew that the two boys that had been right at the front were rather keen cyclists so there was a bit of pressure to set the pace! As soon as I set off, Cammy and David just tucked neatly in behind my back wheel and got some nice shelter from the wind, and I did all the work... typical!
We soon arrived in North Berwick and were having coffee and cake in the North Berwick Seabird Centre cafe. The kids were in high spirits but some of the sharper ones realised that we had been given the assistance of the wind on our backs and we were about to head straight into it on the return journey...
Initially, it wasn't too bad but we certainly hit a bit of a wall returning past Cockenzie. The kids did great but the way back into Edinburgh was a long and tiring slog for all of us. However, the weather could have been a lot worse and wind must always be expected when cycling in Scotland! A very worthwhile day that will see us in good stead when we hit the highlands in a few weeks - super psyched!

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Summer Mountain Leader Award Training

Over the past week I've been on a Mountain Leader Award Training course run by Steve Spalding. Our base for the week was Fearnan on Loch Tay with the three others from GWC. Steve came to meet us in the morning of the first day and we headed up the road into Glenlyon and parked up close to Macgregor's Leap. We headed straight up the steep slopes towards Lochan Creag a' Mhadaidh. The focus today was on pacing and estimating distance & time. We all measured our number of paces over 100 metres and tried out different slope angles; looking at how our paces were effected. Next we looked at different speeds and techniques for moving over different terrain. I found it very useful and interesting to see how pace and time could vary so much over a mixture of simple and complex ground. We finished up back at base and got a brew on while we reflected on today's main teaching points. Steve then showed us a few basic techniques with a rope and using some nearby picnic tables as anchors :) We were told that we would be putting this to more practical use in a more realistic setting the next day.
Some map and compass action
We had an early start the next day, as we had to drive to Steve's house in Pitlocry. After a brew and a quick chat about the plan for the day, we headed out in the car and parked just up the road at the Ben Vrackie car park near Baledmund. As we headed north into the woods, we tried to put our new-found counting steps knowledge into practice between the footbridges that were marked on the map - with some mixed results! We pressed on to Loch a' Choire, passing through Poll gun Toin between Creag Bhreac and Stac an Fheidh. It was a fine day weather-wise and I was sincerely glad to be out on such a fine hill. We grabbed a bite on the slopes overlooking the loch below and talked about types of food on the hill and the use of a GPS. Next, we headed up the steep scree slopes on the south side of Ben Vrackie. We looked at different techniques and tactics for moving over steep ground. When we reached the top, Catriona's compass was broken; luckily I happened to have a spare Silva 4 and gave it to her. Over the next few minutes we used bearings and triangulation techniques to pinpoint our position on the map. Catriona soon noticed that her bearings were a full 180 degrees out and to our amazement the compass I had given her had flipped magnetic polarity! All very amusing as everyone accused me of giving her a joke compass :) It still worked as accurately as before; she just had to remember to follow the white end and not the red! We headed northwest towards Meall an' Daimh and then swung to the southwest and tried to find a way down through the crags. Steve gave us some tips on route finding over rocky terrain and I have to say it was very useful indeed. It was then time to get the ropes out and practice lowering down steep ground. We first looked at simple knots and anchor selection which wasn't that new to me to be honest but was interesting to look at it without having any shiny stuff to jam in the rock. The body belaying and the self abseil techniques were very useful skills to learn and also the use of direct belay around a rock. It was then time to practice the art of using a confidence rope, which is actually a lot harder than I had imagined it to be. On heading back down to the car park, Steve talked back over another great training day and recapped all we had covered throughout the day. Driving back to the hostel I knew I would sleep well that night!
The next morning was a little less practical; we once again headed to Steve's place and we went over a crash course in mountain weather and some useful places to find forecasts and synoptic charts. Steve also had a selection of useful books that he recommended to us; everything from birds to rocks. After our lecture, Steve took us up the hill to Glen Brerachan to practice some casualty care and evacuation techniques. It was this afternoon that, to my horror, the sole started to detach from my trusty Meindl boots! Gutted... they had served my very well as I bought them way back in 2002 for my Outdoor Education course at Edinburgh University so I couldn't say that I hadn't got good wear out of them. Luckily, I had my pair of Scarpa Manta in the car as a backup. On that sorry note, we finished up for the day and headed back to base for the night.
After a good nights sleep, we headed back to Pitlochry and met Steve on the banks of the River Tummel for some river crossings. The river wasn't particulary high, but we looked at different strategies and tactics for getting across; both as a group and individually. I had read about various tacktics in a number of books but never had the opportunity to put them into practice in the real world. Then it was time to get the rope out and really get wet. With the river being far from a raging torrent, it was difficult to get the idea of how effective the 'V' technique would be in fast moving water but it was still a very useful exercise. After getting dry, we headed back to Steve to plan our two day expedition. Looking at a few weather forecasts and listening to what Steve recommended; it was soon decided to head west towards Bridge of Orchy. Non of us had walked any of the hills in that area so we jumped at the chance to explore the area. Steve talked us through what equipment to take and split between us and then it was time to head back to base to pack our bags.
Where are we?!
We set off early in a convoy of two cars towards Tyndrum on the A85. We parked one car at the station at Bridge of Orchy and then continued a little further north until we turned off and parked at Achallader. Leaving the car behind, we headed off into the unknown. The weather really was glorious and we all felt like we had been well and truly blessed as we walked along full of vitality. Our first goal was to cross the railway and gain some height, so after crossing at the footbridge we headed straight up into the northeast corrie of Beinn Achaladair. Here, we paused for a snack and to admire the stunning views north over Rannoch Moor. Now revitalised, we headed up the western slope of Meall Buidhe to gain another 200m in height. Then we traversed the slope heading northest around to Lochan a' Chreachain. Next, we headed straight up the steep west-facing slope to gain the ridge leading to the top of Beinn a Chreachain. It was a glorious day and we had great views of the hills in every direction. The only annoyance was the blustery wind in our face as we headed west along the ridge to the summit of Beinn Achaladair. As we walked along, we each took it in turns to lead a leg and we discussed what pace worked when moving over different terrain with our heavy bags. As expected, we quickly decided that walking slightly slower without as many stops was the way to go! The day was now getting on a bit so we started to think about a spot to camp. The main priority was definitely to get out of the wind! We headed down from the ridge to the east and found a nice sheltered spot down in Coire nan Clach. The ground was quite firm, not too boggy and we soon had our tents up and a cuppa brewing away. It was then time to get stuck into some well earned grub. Boil in the bag was the order of the day and I have to say that I took the opportunity to eat most of my food after a full on day and I knew we still had the night nav to come later on.
Campsite
After a couple of hours recharging and chilling out, we once again ventured out into the hills. All remaining light had now well and truly disappeared, so it was head torches on for everyone. Our main aim for the evening was to bag Beinn Mhanach so the first thing we did was to discuss tactics. The general plan was to head for a few obvious features and split the route into shorter legs for each of us to lead. Martin was the first to be in charge and headed for the bealach to the southeast that was split by the boundary line. This was reached without much difficulty and then Paul took over and found the top of the crags that lay further eastwards. Catriona then led us south up the gentle slope to the bealach between Beinn Mhanach and Beinn a' Chuirn. It was then up to me to find the summit... which I did nae bother :) We then reversed the legs back to the tents. As visibility was good, due to the clear night, our first experience of night nav was a great success but I could imagine it being a lot more difficult in poor conditions. I was very relieved to crawl into my sleeping bag and get a good nights sleep; it had been a long day.
I woke with the inside of the tent very much resembling a sauna. Clearly it was another gloriously sunny day but inside the tent we were cooking! We sat outside and cooked breakfast in the sun; the perfect start to our last day of the training. Steve said that to start the day, we were to split into pairs and formulate a plan for how to attack Beinn a Dothaidh. Martin and I decided that it was important that we tried to loose as little height as possible so our plan was to contour around to the bealach just above Coire Daingean. Paul and Catriona had their own idea so we set off following our different routes. Steve initially started walking with Martin and I but after twenty minutes or so it became clear that Paul and Catriona had lost far too much height and had dropped way down below the crags of Coire a' Ghabhalach. Steve told us to continue on and bag the next top and instructed us to meet him at the spot height of 744m above Coire an Dothaidh. We parted and Martin and I continued on with our plan while Steve disappeared in search of the others. We bagged Beinn a Dothaidh without incident and then traversed along the ridge to the spot height of 1000m before heading down to meet up with Steve. By this time the heat of the midday sun was beating down on us and I remember the heat feeling almost relentless; almost too hot! We arrived at our meeting place to find Steve and Paul cooling their feet in a small pool at the bealach. Catriona had steamed up to bag the summit of Beinn a Dothaidh and wasn't too far behind us. After a quick bite we decided to stash some of our bags, as we had to return to this spot after bagging our next target; Beinn Dorain. On our way to the summit, we were each given a secret target to find in a kind of micro nav mock assessment exercise which proved to be very useful; as we got the chance to put everything into practice that we had learned over the week. At the top we were treated to a brilliant panorama through Glen Coe and over to Ben Nevis. It was then time to head down to Bridge of Orchy and round of a fantastic week. As we descended, Steve took each of us aside and chatted to us individually about how the week had gone. Personally, I thought it had gone really well and I was keen to put to use all the skills I had leaned from Steve.

Crew

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Tiree


I had quite a few days holiday to take over the Easter break but money was quite tight. We had a great time on Mull a few years ago and we were keen to see more of the Scottish Islands. Some friends of ours had recommended Tiree to us a couple of times and we liked the sound of it. A few clicks and a couple of emails later, I had booked the ferry and found us a place to stay. A drive, an overnight stay, an early morning ferry and we were there!
We had found a quaint wee Blackhouse called Drovers Cottage in Barrapoll. We settled in, quickly unpacked the car and headed back out to explore. The weather was glorious so I wanted to make the most of the afternoon, as the forecast for the next few days was mixed at best. We drove all the way around the island to get a good feel for the place. It has to be said it is a truly stunning place and not like any other place I've been, particularly in Scotland. In fact, you wouldn't think you were in Scotland at all. We very quickly came to the realisation that the island is really just one big beach the entire way round. Somehow, we managed to stop and get out to view each beach on our way round. I could see why the island is perfect for surfing and other water sports; if the conditions aren't right at one beach then all you have to do is head to the next beach and you're bound to find conditions that suit. Another reason why Tiree is great for windsurfing... the wind. Being so flat and surrounded by the Atlantic, you can see why the island receives a relentless battering from the wind. Driving round, we got a really good feel for the place and we started to make some plans for the next few days. Late in the afternoon, we drove down the farm track to Balephuil Bay and parked in the dunes. From here, we couldn't see the beach so we got out and had to brave the wind. Reaching the top of the dunes, we had a great view of the magnificent shore and the crashing waves. The sand was golden and the water was deep blue... not a soul to be seen anywhere. I really had the feeling of being abroad. We strolled along the sand towards Beinn Ceann a' Mhara in the hope of getting a good view of the island from the top. The Machair was very boggy and it was a bit slippy on the way up but well worth it; a great view across the south east of the island. We headed back down and back to Drovers to rustle up some grub.
The small summit of Beinn Ceann a' Mhara

Looking down on Traigh nan Gilean from Beinn Ceann a' Mhara

The next day wasn't exactly the best weather I had ever seen. However, our time on this wonderful rock was limited so we had to man up and make the best of it. I wanted to go for a bit of a walk and explore a bit of the coast on foot and leave the car at home. We set off from the cottage around 09:30 and followed the B8065 west to Sandaig. There was only about 100m visibility, as a thick mist covered the island. Our target was Beinn Hough and I was hoping that by the time we were on top of it, the mist would have lifted. As it turned out, this was exactly what happened. We left the road at Creagan House and branched to the right to follow the track up to the telecoms mast at the top of Beinn Mhurstat. There wasn't much to see here so we pushed on to Beinn Hough via a steep bealach. At the summit, we found the remains of a WWII radar station... and a trig point. What we also found was that the mist had indeed lifted and we had uninterrupted views over Tiree in it's entirety; simply breathtaking. It really hit home just how flat the island was. From just 119m we could see right across from one side to the other and it was clear just how exposed to the wind the place really was. After we had munched our butties, we headed down to join the track leading to Hough Bay. The way back was along the beaches back to Sandaig. We paused for a while to watch some Kitesurfers at Traigh Thodhrasdail beach - pretty exciting stuff! A great day considering the poor weather in the morning.
The view from Beinn Hough
The view from Beinn Hough
The view from Beinn Hough
The view from Beinn Hough
Today was really quite dreach. It rained heavily all day so we spent most of it chilling out, drinking coffee and visiting a few of the local shops.
More rain this morning but a little brighter. I had been reading about Skerryvore Lighthouse and wanted to get a closer look. I contacted Iain MacDonald of Skipinnish Sea Tours who was extremely helpful. Unfortunately it seemed that the sea and the weather were certainly not in our favour; another time perhaps. Remaining upbeat, we headed to Hynish to check out the museum. There wasn't much life about the place to be honest. Although, we did come across some rather large highland coos on the beach; certainly something you don't see everyday! The forecast was better for tomorrow...
The signal tower at Hynish

Highland Coo on the beach at Hynish

We woke to a gap in the clouds and a sparkling of sunshine but most importantly the rain had stopped. So far, the body boards and wetsuits had sat in the boot of the car unused and we were meant to be in the water sports capital of the UK! We had breakfast and got ready to head out. However, as we were about to step out the door, the heavens opened. I couldn't quite believe our luck but I was sure it must have been a passing shower because the forecast was good. The rain stayed on until lunch, but then the wind picked up and blew the clouds away. With the sky now blue and the sun shining, we jumped in the car and headed to Balephuil Bay. We squeezed into our wetsuits, grabbed our bodyboards and headed over the dunes into the surf. I have to be honest; it was absolutely baltic! The waves were quite big and it was great fun... but we didn't last long as we soon lost feeling in our hands and feet. By this time the wind was howling and it was a bit of a mission getting dry at the car but also hilarious. With the heater on and a brew in hand we were soon warm again. A couple of crab claw salads for dinner in the Scarinish Hotel rounded off another good day.
Freezing at Balephuil Bay!
Today was our last full day on Tiree and I wanted to finish on a high. I had made a call and exchanged a few texts with Willy MacLean and had managed to arrange some sand yaughting for us. We headed off early and it was a glorious day on Tiree. Ironically, today of all days, there was no wind! We met Willy just before 10am at Gott Bay and he talked us through the basics; just like topper sailing really. He also mentioned the distinct lack of wind and he recommended that we come back after lunch when the wind had picked up a bit. We were more than happy to follow his advice and hopefully get the most out of the day as possible so we headed off with some time to kill. I had read in the visitors guide that there was a large boulder on the beach near Balephetrish Bay called The Ringing Stone. Apparently it's a huge chunk of granodiorite that made it's way from Rum during the ice age. The guide said that when banged with smaller rocks, the boulder emits a ringing sound. Legend has it: if the rock is moved, Tiree will sink into the ocean. It took us a wee while to find it but then we came across the obvious boulder near the shore line. I was surprised that it actually made a very distinct ringing sound when I struck it with a small rock - very weird!
With a few hours now passed, sure enough, the wind had picked up when we arrived back at Gott Bay. It didn't take long for us to get started and get to grips with the yaughts. I was impressed with just how fast you could go... and just how much sand went in your face! By the end of the afternoon we were absolutely covered in sand and a great experience to end our time on Tiree; must go back soon :)
Gott Bay
Ringing the 'Ringing Stone'
Great fun
 
What a setting!
SAND!

Sand Yachting - Tiree 2009 from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.