Tuesday, June 23, 2009

North Berwick Law Quarry

With the kids finished their block for climbing this session, we had a free Tuesday session for some staff climbing. Richard T had suggested that we head to North Berwick and check out North Berwick Law Quarry, as apparently there was some sport climbs there. I had been up and around Berwick Law a handful of times in the past but couldn't recall anyone climbing or seeing any bolts. However, after some brief online research, I had found us a topo of North Berwick Law Quarry.
We left sharply at the end of school and after negotiating the Edinburgh Bypass traffic and blasting down the A1, we were at "The Law" carpark and gearing up. The approach was less than 10 minutes; go over the style at the carpark and head right along the path that goes around the base of the hill until the quarry comes into view on your left. As this was only my second climbing trip in the great outdoors, I was pretty excited to check out the routes. However, I was a little intimidated and I thought some of them looked quite tricky! After a bit of a chat, Richard T decided to get on something easy(ish), so he lead Wild Iris 5+** and I gladly belayed and then followed on a bottom rope to strip the route after him. It was more tricky than I had planned for and I have to say that I struggled a little to find the holds - this was most probably just down to my lack of experience. Not impressed by my first attempt, I got back on it and this time made fast work of it. The rock wall is quite blank and has had the holds chipped out to give the routes - not much visable traffic for a while made them quite tricky to find.
Richard G bottom roping Darkness Falling F6a+, North Berwick Law Quarry
Richard G had now joined us and was keen to get on a route, but with none of us climbing particularly hard recently, there wasn't many easy options as we gazed at the topo. We had a look at Darkness Falling 6a+* and the description said, "Tricky first clip"... and it really wasn't kidding! The first bolt was high above the ledge that appeared to be gained by a rather tricky move in the corner - certainly the crux. As we didn't have a clip stick, and none of us fancied risking an injury, we decided just to top rope it; this seemed the sensible option. Richard T headed up Wild Iris again and swung accross the top to put the rope through the lower off above Darkness Falling. We all felt more compfortable with this approach and we all had great fun on it, but I wouldn't fancy leading it without a clip stick!
Richard T bottom roping Darkness Falling F6a+, North Berwick Law Quarry
The Richards then had a play around on a few of the harder routes but they both soon discovered that they were quite nippy! A great evening of climbing and great company too. I was really impressed by The Law as a climbing venue and I fancied coming back to try a few leads when I had gained more confidence and experience; a venue that I would recommend.