After a great few days in the
Northern Pennines, I arrived home on Monday evening and had to pack up the car again in preparation for our drive to Torridon yesterday. I had been asked to lead the GWC Torridon Project next year and I had happily agreed to this - on the condition that I would need to go and check out the area first (having only been through there briefly in the past). So, Emily and I made the long drive North yesterday and got ourselves settled into the highly recommended
Torridon Hostel. Today, I wanted to check out
Beinn Alligin. I had a few other hill in mind that I wanted to do with the kids but the one that concerned me the most was Beinn Alligin so I thought it was best to explore it and make a decision afterwards. From a variety of research and much reading, it seemed that the 'normal' route circles the entire mountain in a clockwise direction, leaving The Horns of Alligin until last. Given my experience, I wasn't comfortable about taking a group over The Horns so the other option seemed to suggest returning to the summit of Tom na Gruagaich after Sgurr Mor and back down Coire nan Laogh - the route of ascent. However, I've never been a fan of descending the same way as you came and much more prefer circular routes, as I'm sure many others do also. With this in mind, I had read that there was a possible 'escape' route down to the west of the coll at Fasreidhnean Beinn Alligin. This route descends down towards An Reidh-choire and then follows the deer fence back to the beginning in an anticlockwise direction. The books say that this is an extremely long and unpleasant way down but I was curious to check it out, as it may make for a more entertaining route with the kids.
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| Beinn Alligin in the clouds |
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| Looking South from Alligin across Loch Torridon |
We were up early and made the short drive through Torridon village to the car park by the waterfall on the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. As we left the car and gazed up at Alligin, we couldn't see the summit of Tom na Gruagaich and the mountain was completely covered in mist. Despite this, it was a fine day and we weren't complaining, as the forecast for the UK this week was really quite horrendous. However, on this occasion, it seemed that Torridon had found itself in it's own wee weather bubble; and as we made our way up the initial steep incline on the excellent path, we joked about how mild it was for this time of year. The going was swift on the good path with the big steps and we were soon at a height of around 400 metres, where the incline levelled out somewhat. Here, we paused and took the opportunity to gaze up at the summit and the entrance into the spectacular Coire nan Laogh. As the cloud had now lifted, the air was very clear so we had great views of Beinn Dearg, Liathach and through the Torridon Forrest to the mighty Beinn Eighe. After pausing to catch our breath, we pressed on and rounded the corner of Na Fasreidhnean and into Coire nan Laogh. Here, the path is still excellent (clearly a great deal of work went into laying it) and winds it's way up to the top of Coire nan Laogh following the stream. On entering the corrie, I had spotted a steep gully on western wall that seemed to lead all the way to the head. On closer inspection, it looked even more interesting and inviting and it certainly had more appeal than stepping up the path. After a brief chat we simply headed straight up and were rewarded with a most enjoyable, easy scramble to reach the grassy plateau with no one in sight. We sat in our t-shirts to have a bite for lunch, so that gives an indication of how still and mild the air was today.
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| Looking into the magnificent Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin |
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| The mighty Na Rathanan, The Horns of Alligin |
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| Looking East through the Torridon Forrest from Coire nan Laogh |
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| Emily scrambling up the steep side of Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin |
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| Loch Torridon from the top of Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin |
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| The Skye Cuillin from the top of Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin |
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| On the grassy slopes of Tom na Gruagaich with Loch Torridon behind |
After lunch, we had a short stroll over to the large summit cairn of Tom na Gruagaich, where we took in the breathtaking view of Sgurr Mor and The Horns of Alligin (Na Rathanan). I can't really describe how much there was to take in: stunning views in every direction and even the Cuillin of Skye were clearly visible. I was sure that this must be one of the most amazing views I have seen to date - what a setting. It was also a special moment as it was Emily's first Munro - very well done, Mily!
We headed North down the narrow ridge towards Fasreidhnean Beinn Alligin over a couple of tricky steps but nothing that wouldn't be 'manageable' with a group - great fun actually. On reaching the col, we looked up at the summit of Sgurr Mor and The Black Notch (Eag Dubh). It was tempting, but I wasn't too fussed about going to the top of this one, as I knew I would be back in the near future so I thought it better to save it for another day. Instead, we headed down the steep grassy slopes to the West towards An Reidh-choire. As we started the descent, we looked back and spotted a large heard of Red Deer above us - what a day!
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| Sgurr Mor and The Horns of Alligin (Na Rathanan), Beinn Alligin |
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| Tom na Gruagaich Summit, Beinn Alligin |
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| Red Deer on the side of Sgurr Mor, Beinn Alligin |
The slope was steep, pathless and boggy in places. It was not fast, easy-going or in any way a pleasant route to take. It turned into a relentless bog-slog that was never-ending and it was very late when we eventually made it back to the car with our head touches. I certainly wouldn't recommend this route to anyone, unless they had no other option but even then I can't see why you would go that way - in winter it would be a serious undertaking. The way down the good path back to Tom na Gruagaich and down Coire nan Laogh is by far the more sensible and better option. On the plus side, we were treated to a spectacular sunset to the West and despite the epic journey down, it was a great day and well worth exploring as I now feel great about taking the kids up there... bring it on!
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| Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin |
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| Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin |
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| Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin |
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| Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin |
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| Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin |
