Bynack More

Bynack More - Oct 2012 from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.

Ready for the off at Glenmore Lodge

An Lochan Uaine, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

With the October holidays upon us, Emily and I headed to Nakiska for the week - I was hoping for an early cold snap for the Scotswinter! The weather was looking like it would be best today, with a fresh dump of snow last night. There hasn't been any cold spells to speak of so far so it looked like an early winter climb was out of the question. Instead, we set our sights on Bynack More - the most Northern Munro of the Cairngorms.

Autumn Trees, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

Emily on the cycle in towards the River Nethy, Cairngorms

Looking at the route in from Glenmore Lodge, it looked like quite a way in so we opted to take the bikes. Some good organisation and an early breakfast, saw us getting on our bikes just after 9am. It was a chilly morning and the cloud was low and rain was threatening. Sure enough, a few minutes into our cycle, the heavens opened and we reached for our waterproofs. The track was pretty much a road through the forest and we made swift progress through the trees and arrived at An Lochan Uaine in no time at all. The rain had stopped but still threatened and there was now a fair breeze. We headed down the steps to admire the water, but were halted by a film crew who were busy making a Norwegian dance video. We weren't too put out, as the water was rather 'choppy'.

Looking South down Strath Nethy from the River Nethy, Cairngorms

Heading into winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

Heading on, the track quality degraded and became undulating as we rode through the Ryvoan Pass. We took the right branch of the fork and headed around the corner and up a rather steep incline - much to Emily's disgust. I think it's safe to say that she isn't the biggest fan of cycling up-hill!

Loving winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

Emily heading into winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

After working hard, our reward was a gentle run down to the footbridge across the River Nethy where we left the bikes. Looking South through Strath Nethy, the cloud base was down to around 700 metres but the air was still and the rain still absent. Now on foot, we made quick progress on the good path and gained height quickly. Into the cloud, we stepped into winter and a fair amount of snow and frost. It was interesting to see the vegetation that was all around - it appeared as though everything had been frozen in the state of spring or possibly summer. Due to the return of winter in May this year, many of the new shoots of the plants have been late in emerging; now frozen once again.

Wintery Tors on Bynack More, Cairngorms

Emily enjoying the winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

We made swift progress in the cloud along the flat and the snow was a little deeper - possibly two inches. Randomly a woman and young boy appeared in front of us, out of the mist, and walked by. The boy looked frozen and seemed to lack any kind of appropriate clothing; only an anorak. The path then started to climb up the North ridge of the main event: Bynack More. Emily and I were commenting on how new the path looked and how good it was, when I spotted two bright orange jackets in the mist just up ahead. These two guys were braving the weather and hard at work building the rest of the path we were actually walking! We stopped to shake their hands and to thank them for all their hard work - we also commented on the frozen boy we had passed and they agreed that they had also been concerned by his unsuitable clothing - some people...

Emily on the summit of Bynack More, Cairngorms

On the summit of Bynack More, Cairngorms

The path disappeared, visibility decreased and the snow got deeper. I lead the way up the ridge and we passed some interesting (and rather wintery!) granite tors - a welcome sight in the limited visibility. The West side of the ridge was rather blustery so we traversed left to gain shelter and continued up the East side out of the wind. At the the top, we spent a few minutes hunting in the clag for the summit cairn - which we soon found a triumphantly climbed to the top. There was a large amount of fresh snow at the top, but no sign of any ice - much to my dismay! We descended back down the ridge and found a sheltered spot for some lunch. As we set, the cloud started to thin and the sun tried hard to make an appearance... but didn't.

Looking West to Stac na h-lolaire after descending Bynack More, Cairngorms

Looking up towards the North ridge of Bynack More, Cairngorms

We headed down the same way we had ascended the ridge. The path builders had long gone, and as we walked down onto the flat once again, the clouds lifted, the sky turned blue and the sun shone down on us. We had stunning views to the West towards the crags of Stac na h-looaire - stunning. The way back down to the footbridge was extremely enjoyable and we were soon preparing to jump on the bikes. It had been tough going on the way in, but now I was reminded why I had insisted we bike into the bridge; the descent was now fast and exhilarating - much to our delight. In what seemed like a matter of moments, we were standing on the banks of An Lochan Uaine. Its turquoise waters were now completely still and we had it all to ourselves. Now we could see what all the fuss was about in the various guides and literature - this is truly a special place indeed. After snapping numerous photos, we sped back down the remainder of the track to Glenmore Lodge.

Looking Northwest towards Meall a' Bhuachaille, Cairngorms

An Lochan Uaine, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

Before heading back to Nakiska, we stopped at Loch Morlich to enjoy the last of the day's light (and I also wanted to see what the Northern Corries were like!). The loch was lovely and still, as the sun disappeared behind the trees on the faraway bank. Looking up at Coire an t-Sneachda and Coire an Lochain, I could see that there had been a considerable dump of snow, but it looked like it was all melting and things were looking rather black. Nothing looked like it was in condition, so I was happy that we had made the most of the winter day. Things were now feeling rather mild, and I was pretty sure most of the snow would be gone by tomorrow.

An Lochan Uaine, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

Sunset over Loch Morlich, Cairngorms

We headed back to the car and reflected on what a great day it had been. It had certainly been a day filled with everything that Scotland in winter has to offer.

Cairngorm and the Northern Corries from Loch Morlich

Creag Dhubh and Inshriach Forest

We are staying at Nakiska for the long weekend and Emiy's birthday. My ankle is feeling better and is almost back to full range of motion - but I am still reluctant to put it to a full test in stiff winter boots. In theory my ankle would be better off and well protected in my Scarpa Mantas but I am just a little weary and nervous about further injury after being out of action for so long. Also, it seems that winter is hanging around quite well so hopefully there will be a chance to do a couple of things in early March when my ankle is even stronger.

Looking North towards Loch Insh from Torbreck, Inshriach Forest

Emily's boots in the snow, Inshriach Forest

A partly-frozen Uath Lochan, Inshriach Forest

A partly-frozen Uath Lochan, Inshriach Forest

So, the purpose of this weekend is to chill out and relax for Emily's birthday but the weather was looking like it would be rather splendid today so we both felt we should get outdoors and make the most of it. There was a lot of snow on the ground, as we fully experienced on the A9 on the drive up last night(!), and I didn't want to push things too much so a relatively low-level walk seemed like the sensible option. I glanced over the map and quickly decided that we should head into Glen Feshie. I had spotted a forest walk in one of the guidebooks that began at Balnacraig farm and wound it's way through the Inshriach Forest to the small summit of Creag Dhubh.

Heading around Uath Lochan in the snow, Inshriach Forest

A partly-frozen Uath Lochan, Inshriach Forest

Emily and I at the summit of Creag Dhubh, Inshriach Forest

It was a lovely day out in the fine weather and was a harder slog through the snow than I had imagined. There was a magnificent spot on the shore of the partly-frozen Uath Lochan and there are surprisingly good views in all directions from the summit of Creag Dhubh. In the absence of the snow, the circuit would be a great burn for the mountain bike along the forest trails.

Badger footprints in the snow, Inshriach Forest

Badger footprints in the snow, Inshriach Forest

An unexpected bonus to a great day out was stumbling upon a trail of badger tracks in the snow through the forest - amazing!

Cairn Gorm with fresh snow

Starting up the tourist path

After the horrendous weather on Thursday, there had been a big dump of snow on Friday. We had a rest day; took in the sights of the local area and chilled out a little. Out of the window at Nakiska on Friday evening, I could see that there was a good covering of snow on Creag Dhubh above 500m. I was immediately psyched and fancied bagging Cairn Gorm the next day (via the non tourist route of course).

Sun over
Fiacaill a' Choire Chais

We left early and with the short drive up the road, we were ready to leave the car park by 08:30. As we passed the Ski Centre and headed up the wide track, I started to get an idea for just how much snow there had been. There was at least 5 inches of soft fresh powder. We were two of many folk heading up to the top of Cairn Gorm in the sunshine that morning. Not at all surprising considering the excellent weather. We passed under the funicular and into a couple of switch-backs. At this point, it was time for us to leave the tourists behind and let them enjoy their very uninteresting slog up the rest of the track to  Ptarmigan Station. The path was difficult to follow but that wasn't too much of a problem, as we simply headed straight up the slope of Fiacaill a' Choire Chais. As we passed the Ski Tows and gained height, I looked over at the funicular, ski tows, buildings and tourists. Not the most picturesque of mountains to say the least, but at least folk were out enjoying the outdoors and made it more accessible to all.

The controversial funicular

Looking down to Loch Morlich

The going up the slope was tough in the deeper powder as we got higher and as the gradient steepened. However it was great fun in the snow and we were in no hurry at all with most of the glorious day still ahead. As we gained the ridge, we were hit full in the face by the strong southwesterly. We quickened our pace and and took shelter behind the large cairn at 1141m.

Looking south across the plateau

A quick brew and a few photos later; we were heading for the summit slopes. On the way up, there were great views across the plateau over to Ben Macdui; in my opinion one of the best views in Scotland. We hadn't seen a single soul after leaving the track below but when we reached the summit, we found it swarming with people. I think they were all quite surprised to see us appearing up the slope by the non-tourist path. It was rather windy at the top and it was rather chilly, so we took shelter by the weather station on the summit and had a spot of lunch. After that, we joined the tourists in Ptarmigan Station for a hot chocolate... or two.

The Northern Corries

Summit Weather Station

An iced up weather station

On top of the world

Sgor Gaoith in good Scottish weather

Looking South towards Achlean

It was a real dog of a day; just as the weather forecast had predicted. Relentless rain coupled with 80-90 mph winds. Classic Scottish weather! Nevertheless, we had a limited number of days in the Cairngorms so I was keen to get stuff done. I had seen that the weather would also be bad tomorrow with plenty of snow forecast, so I had that planned as a rest day. The day after that was looking excellent weather-wise so I was planning to tackle Cairngorm then. With the weather being so bad, I wanted to tackle something quite straightforward; so we could bail out early and easily if we needed to. Flicking through the books, I quickly homed in on Sgor Gaoith.

Looking South into Glen Feshie

We didn't leave until after 08:30 mainly because I was looking out the window hoping that the wind would stop howling or the rain would ease a little... it didn't. We drove into Glen Feshie and parked up just north along the road from Auchlean. To my horror, the weather had somehow got worse; the wind and rain was now whipping down the glen from the south. We were soaked through only a few minutes after setting off. Somehow, the rain seemed to be getting in underneath our jackets; something I've heard folk joke about in the past when talking about the Scottish weather.

The track heading up towards
Carn Ban Mor

A short walk along the road saw us turn onto the track to the east through some pine trees. The colours were spectacular and the trees gave us some shelter from the wind and the rain. This was shortlived however, as we continued up the track and out onto the open heather covered hillside. As we got higher, the wind cold stronger and more relentless. Finding it difficult to stay on our feet, we took shelter behind a large cairn in the bealach to the south of Coire Ruadh (750m). I couldn't see the top of Carn Ban Mor or the rest of the ridge ahead; it was covered in cloud. By now we were wet through and pretty cold. I made the decision to head back down. Looking back now, it was definately the right call. It would have meant crawling another 350 metres up the slope to the top and then trying not to be blown off the top of the ridge into Glen Einich. Drenched and cold, but in good spirits, we headed back down the track to the car. We joked with each other about how awful the weather was and how no one in their right mind would have attempted a Munro today :)
A good experience considering the weather today. You need days like that occasionally for a reality check and a reminder as to just how savage mountain weather can be. The warm of the wood burning stove and the hot tub back at base were a very welcome end to the day.