Simonside

Emily heading through the woods on the approach to Simonside North Face, Northumberland

As this is the Edinburgh September long weekend, Emily and I have taken the opportunity to come down to Yorkshire to visit the family in Northallerton. It just so happens that Richard and David are running in the Great North Run 2012 on Sunday so we felt compelled to cheer them on and show our support. It didn't make sense to drive all the way down to Yorkshire and then drive North again to South Shields for the GNR so we decided to stay two nights in Northumberland; with a view to get some climbing in. We opted for two nights in Rothbury, as I quite liked the look of Simonside in the Northern England: Rock Climbing Guide (Rockfax Climbing Guide).

Boulders in the woods on the approach to Simonside North Face, Northumberland

We woke to a cracking morning and after a good cooked breakfast, we were soon gearing up in the Simonside picnic area car park. After a bit of a faff, we were making our way through the woods along the forestry track. After around ten minutes of steady climbing, we left the track and took the path that led around to the clearing below the main Simonside North Face. It was a very pleasant walk through the trees with the sun coming through and the temperature was mild.

Simonside North Face, Northumberland

As we left the woods, we were suddenly out onto the open moor and we got our first view of the crag in all of it's glory. The other thing that struck us was the strong, cold wind. As we made our way past a couple of the large boulders to the face, I realised that the wind was going to be a bit of an issue for the day.

Emily sheltering from the wind, Simonside North Face, Northumberland

By the time we were at the crag, we had experienced the full scale of the relentless gusts that were going to be with us for the rest of the day. I had read in the guidebook that the crag can be quite exposed but I had gambled on it not being an issue; a bit of a shame. Undeterred, we managed to find a fair amount of the crag that was slightly out of the wind and had great fun ticking off the many easy classics. It was all about quickly ticking off the many easy classics, as we didn't want to be stationary for too long and freeze! The highlights were most certainly Great Chimney D*** and Innominate Crack VD**. We had a great fun and Emily thought the climbing was great. I ticked off the very enjoyable and well-protected Flake Corner VS 4c* before we packed up our gear - a tricky move to stand on the top of the flake!

Gearing up at a chilly Simonside North Face, Northumberland

We were going to head back but Emily suggested that we circle back to the car via some of the bouldering venues that were further along the summit track - a great idea! Another reason for picking Simonside was that I quite fancied trying Dulcinea font 7a+***. I knew that there was no chance of sending it today, given the conditions, but we were keen to find it and at least check it out. After a bit of a tramp, we found Old Stell Crag and then Dulcinea. It actually looked ok - but was rather damp. I spent a few minutes on the start but the friction and conditions just weren't great; one for another day and a great excuse to come back! I was still keen to get on something so I quickly dispatched the 4 very easy problems on the Warm Up Wall - see video for anyone who is interested.

Flake Corner VS 4c*, Simonside North Face, Northumberland

Simonside Lookout, Simonside North Face, Northumberland

Feeling the cold, Simonside North Face, Northumberland

The light was now fading so we took the main path down and around Dove Crag before heading back to the car via Joe's Wood (following the Coe Burn). A fantastic day and I can't wait to go back to Simonside on a calmer day to try some of the harder routes.

Simonside Climbing from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.

Salisbury Crags Bouldering

The weather forecast was for today to be a cracking day so I was keen to make the most of it. I had recently got hold of a DMM Highball crash pad from eBay so I was dying to get out on some boulders to try it out - review coming soon! I was struggling to decide where to go, but I knew I didn't want to drive too far and ideally I wanted somewhere that wasn't directly in the sun. In the end I opted for Salisbury Crags, South Quarry.

When I parked up in Holyrood Park along Queen's Drive, the Park was rammed with folk enjoying the good weather. Ignoring the crags, I grabbed my gear and my pad and headed up the slope to the path leading round to the South Quarry. There were a couple of other folk there but mostly it was folk just messing around at the back of the quarry. I dropped my gear at the foot of The Black Wall (in the shade) and headed to the back of the Quarry to warm up with some footwork and easy traversing.

Twenty minutes later, I returned and studied the moves on The Black Wall Traverse font 6c+***. My flash attempt didn't go particularly well; I managed to get a couple of moves past the initial traverse along the high rail but then lost my way and had to bail to the mat. There was another chap there working the problem: Oly Leask. We chatted a bit and spotted / helped each other on the problem but it didn't look like it was going to go today. I was struggling to get down low and make the big reach across to the right before going into the final sequence. No matter what I tried I just couldn't quite make the link. After Oly left, I had a few more tries but didn't get any closer and started to fade. Eventually, the afternoon sun crept round and onto the front of wall - The Black Wall no longer. I decided it was just too warm in the sun to improve any so I called it a day.

A rather frustrating but extremely enjoyable afternoon - I'll get the traverse next time!

South Africa Reflections

Here's a video that I put together that sums up our amazing time in South Africa. It really was a most memorable trip. Enjoy.

South Africa - April 2010 from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.

Bouldering at Uvongo

We had spent a further 10 days (unplanned) in South Africa - but we certainly weren't complaining. Emily and I had both been in contact with our employers in the UK and we had both been told that we would still be paid our usual salary, regardless of the situation. An excellent problem to have!

We were lucky because we had Bini's folks to stay with and we had spent most of the past week lounging around on the beach and generally just chilling out. As we had made the most of our time in South Africa, we hadn't had a great deal of time to just chill out and enjoy the good weather - so now we were certainly making up for it! But today was our last full day, as we had managed to get booked onto flights back home tomorrow. Originally I was a little concerned about not getting home for another three weeks (which was what we were told originally) because I was due to lead my first Project for GWC on 10th May - so I really needed to be home to sort things out.

Bouldering at Uvongo beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa

Bouldering at Uvongo beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa

We spent today at the stunning Uvongo Beach. While the others topped up their tans for one final time, I turned my attention to the shady sandstone cliffs towards the back of the beach. As I got closer, I could see a couple of bolts glinting in the sun; sport climbing routes. There was a very prominent overhanging roof a short way from the ground that was just crying out for some bouldering. The rock was a little damp but the friction wasn't bad and there where lots of big features to grab hold of to pull along the roof of the overhang. It didn't really matter that I was without my rock shoes, as it was mostly all about the arms. I had great fun traversing along the roof and occasionally pulling up and through on to the main headwall of the routes. The lines didn't look too difficult (as the difficulty seemed to be pulling over the initial roof to gain the main face) and certainly looked worthwhile. Wish I had a rope and some 'draws.

Bouldering at Uvongo beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa

Bouldering at Uvongo beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa

Bouldering at Uvongo beach, Kwazulu Natal, South Africa

A great end to an amazing trip.

Red Point

Sand left on top of rocks by the tide, Red Point

After a fantastic day up Beinn Alligin yesterday, we opted for something less energetic today. Another plan I had for Projects next year was to walk the group from Diabaig to Red Point via the coast. I already knew where to start at Diabaig, but I had never been to Red Point before and experienced the magnificent beach. We had a bit of a long lie and a late breakfast so it was midday when we turned off the road to Gairloch and headed towards Badachro on the single track road. As was the same as yesterday, the weather was mild, dry and sunny - almost like summer!

Beinn Alligin from Red Point

As we rounded the headland at Port Henderson, the stunning red sands came into view. We parked up at the car park, just before the entrance to Red Point Farm, and headed down towards the beach on the path following the stream. We headed straight for the massive sand dune in front of us and then ran down it onto the golden sand. It really didn't feel like we were up North in October; it really was mild. We carried on round and explored the coast to the Southwest over boggy, grassy farmland. This was a pleasant and interesting stroll and was a great way to walk off some of the stiffness in the legs after yesterday's epic. Progress was slow and it was a good while before we reached the second beach; which is even more impressive than the first. Here was where I wanted to camp with the kids; just behind the sand in the shelter of the deep sand dunes. I was hoping to get permission from the farmer to drive a van down to the second beach - but I would have that conversation another day.

Red Point

Red Point

Happy with the camping spot, we headed back along the coast again, as I had spotted a stoney beach on the way that had some potential for some bouldering. Emily sat in the sun as I messed around on the small outcrop at the shore - great fun.

Bouldering at Red Point

Bouldering at Red Point

Bouldering at Red Point

Bouldering at Red Point

Bouldering at Red Point

Bouldering at Red Point

Blackford Bouldering

After an amazing week in The Lakes, I was super keen to climb as much as possible this summer. During the trip, Adam had suggested that I try a bit of bouldering at Blackford Glen on Agassiz Rock. Keen to make this my local crag, Emily and I set off after work with a couple of school bouldering mats into Blackford Glen. I had purchased a copy of the excellent guide book: Bouldering in Scotland and a bit of our local knowledge helped us find the crag in no time at all. The guide book and the ScottishClimbs page show diagrams of some of the illuminate (harder!) problems but I found them quite hard to pick out, to be honest. I stuck to the traverse problem: High Traverse F6b**

Agassiz Rock, Blackford

Agassiz Rock, Blackford

It was quite hard, I thought! Obviously not having climbed outside much wasn't doing me any favours, and the rock was quite harsh on the skin... to say the least! I had a few goes on it but couldn't quite get through the middle part, so I decided to split it up into two. The first section was easy and was mostly good jugs with polished footholds. The second half, from left to right, is on smaller holds and some slopers. I found the crux was moving from the high first section to the lower second part. I just couldn't make the link. Ah well... I would be back... hopefully frequently!

Climbing Hands, Blackford

Raasay Rock Climbing

Day 9 of GWC S3 Projects 2008

Helping the group gear up

Today was the day I was looking forward to the most. Once again we were to be joined by Russell Zenthon and other staff from Kushi Adventures. The plan was to spend the entire day climbing and abseiling on Raasay's sea cliffs. The weather was once again on our side: overcast and not too warm. A short drive north, followed by a short walk down to the shore at Brochel. While Russell got the kids sorted out and gave his intro to rock climbing, the other instructors set up a few top ropes and an abseil. Martin and took the opportunity to explore the cliffs a little and we were soon bouldering a short distance away from the rest of the group. After getting pumped we headed back to join the group, where a massive chalk fight had broken out! After blazing up the 4 roped routes, we had a spot of lunch. The kids all seemed to really enjoy the climbing, particularly the girls.

After lunch it was time to see who would cope with the abseil :) The whole group managed to 'step over the edge' without much fuss. Obviously there was the odd tentative step and the usual shrieking from some of the girls, but no-one hesitated very long or 'froze'. We were really impressed by the confidence and ability showed by every member of the group. Thanks to Russell et al for an excellent day on rock.

After dinner, the very nice lady came by the hostel and spent a good hour giving a Gaelic lesson to the kids. To be honest, I didn't think they'd be very interested but it turns out they loved it and didn't stop talking about it! I just shows you that there's a great deal to be said for the spirit of the local 'Islanders' in Scotland.

Rhododendron clearing

Day 8 of GWC S3 Projects 2008

Martin: man at work

Today was a chance to give something back. We headed down the road to Inverarish where we had arranged to meet a couple of the locals. The plan was to help clear some Rhododendrons from a communal picnic area. Rhododendrons were brought to Raasay as part of the gardens in Raasay House and have since overrun parts of the island. The day was overcast and quite muggy; it was a nice change from the relentless sun we had been experiencing over the past 7 days.
Everyone got stuck into the massive task at hand. The Rhodies were everywhere! Some of them were more like medium sized trees with thick trunks. It was clear that nothing else was able to grow there and that nothing would until the Rhodies were cleared. I had read about the problems that Rhododendrons could cause in woodland areas but, until now, had never experienced it first hand. I'm not sure I'll look at a Rhododendron in the same way again! Apparently, Rhododendrons cover the woodland floor in a blanket of shade; where nothing can grow. To add to that, they also turn the soil very acidic; making it harder still for other plants to grow. The plan of attack was a simple one: staff would use saws and loppers to cut down the offending bushes and the kids collected them and piled them high in one huge pile. It was hard work but great fun and the kids had a ball.

It was nice to talk to some of the local legends and get a feel for the place and the background. One of the women kindly offered to come and teach the kids some Scottish Gaelic one evening. After lunch we cleared some more and then some more. We had now amassed a huge pile of Rhodies in the picnic area car park. There was only one thing for it; a fire! And a rather large bonfire it was too, much to the delight of the kids. For some, probably the highlight of Projects so far.

Dun Caan

Day 7 of GWC S3 Projects 2008

Looking towards the Crowlin Islands
from Dun Caan

We woke to another glorious day... El Scorchio! The warden at the hostel was telling us last night that it hadn't rained on Skye for 6 weeks! Time for the suncream kids...

We set off down the road; it was a nice change not having to drive anywhere first thing. We headed into Raasay Forest and made our way up the track to the old mines. Here, the old railway line is clearly visible and runs back down towards Suishnish. The path was faint and the going was quite tough but everyone was in great spirits. It was clear that this route hadn't seen much traffic in recent years. Around the west side of Loch na Mna, through the Bealach Ruadh and a brief pause at Loch na Meilich (Raasay's water source). Then a short, steep slog up the switchback path to the summit of Dun Caan. What a day... and what a view. Clear as far as you could see; from the Cuillin to Applecross. After lunch we headed back down the path and continued west to reach the road, just above Loch Eadar da Bhaile.

The bay at Bagh an Inbhire

As it was only early afternoon, we decided to head north along the road and make our way down to the beach at Bagh an Inbhire. A lovely secluded cove at the end of a short track through the forest; a great spot to chill out. With the kids happy enough, Martin decided to go for a dip in the sea. Meanwhile, I had my rock shoes in my bag and had my eye on the small stack of rocks at the shore... time for some bouldering :)

As tea time approached, we headed back along the road to the hostel for some grub. Another great day on Raasay. Later that evening, one of the boys decided it would be a good idea to juggle a football in the middle of the cattle grid outside the hostel. Amazingly he didn't break anything, as his leg disappeared between the metal slats, and he only suffered a bruised ego as his peers and I doubled over with laughter. Something for the risk assessment perhaps?! Indeed, this was the same lad who had to dig out a tent pole from deep in the ground a few days earlier. A pattern emerging perhaps? The mind boggles :-S

Kids: Don't play football on cattle grids. That is all.