Single Pitch Award (SPA) Training - Day 2

We met at Rosyth at 9am and headed straight into the woods to Rosyth Quarry. It certainly wasn't the most picturesque place I had been to climb but Euan said that it was a great place to bring groups. I could immediately see what he meant: there was plenty of space away from the crag, the climbs were quite short, and there were good anchors (ground stakes) at the top. Did I mention the graffiti everywhere?

Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope setup, Rosyth Quarry

Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope rescue using a y-hang, Rosyth Quarry

The sun was again out in force and the first thing Euan tasked us with, was for us each to rig a personal abseil - to see if we could recall what we had learnt yesterday afternoon. Happy with what he had seen us rig, Euan then demonstrated how to rig a top-rope - I had seen this done a couple of times but Euan's setup was slightly different to what I had experienced before and it seemed far simpler to me. We then all had a go at rigging our own top-ropes and Euan then demonstrated a y-hang rescue using the spare half of the dynamic rope. It all looked pretty straight forward, but I knew it would probably be more tricky when actually performing the rescue for real. Obviously this is what Euan got us to do next, as we each took it in turns to be each other's client and perform the y-hang rescue. Sure enough, the rescue was not as easy as it looked and really was quite up-close and personal - but it was great fun practicing it on each other.

Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope rescue using a y-hang, Rosyth Quarry

Then we were shown how to rig a releasable abseil and how to get a client out of difficulty. Again, I had been show this in the past but, again, Euan's rig seemed far superior. We then all had a go at rigging our own releasable abseil and practicing the troubleshooting steps.

Running a top-rope in Rosyth Quarry

Setting up a y-hang rescue on a top-rope, Rosyth Quarry

After a (very!) quick snack, we were all asked to rig a bottom-rope on a specific route. Euan then used each setup in turn to demonstrate a group walk-back, bell-ringing using a ground anchor, and a bottom-rope rescue using a Prusik and the self-belay technique.

Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Rosyth Quarry

It was a lot to take in today but I learnt a great deal and enjoyed every minute of it. After packing up, we headed over the bridge to grab a coffee at the McDonalds and talk through logbooks and the day's events. Before parting company for the evening, Euan told us that we would meet at Blackford Quarry for our final day of training and that he would run it more like a mock-assessment tomorrow because he was happy with what he had seen today.

Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Rosyth Quarry

Single Pitch Award (SPA) Training - Day 1

I had finally found some time to fit in my SPA training and had signed up for a 3 day course at the EICA with Euan Whittaker. I knew Euan quite well from the EICA and he, along with Nic Crawshaw, had ran the CWA training course I was on a few years back.

We met at the EICA at 9am and chatted over a coffee and all introduced ourselves to each other. There were two other chaps on the training: David Walker and Steven Softly. David had recently started work at the Falkirk Community Trust Outdoor Centre and was just starting to get into his rock climbing but seemed super keen. Steven said he worked as a lecturer at Anniesland College and was trying to get through most of the outdoor awards before he got too old for them - but he looked in pretty good shape to me!

The main arena, EICA, Ratho

After a coffee and a chat, we headed downstairs to the indoor wall where we looked at some different techniques at lead belaying with a Grigri, as well as demonstrating back-clipping, death-clipping and z-clipping. Euan said that he didn't want to spend too long on the indoor syllabus because he knew that we had all done the CWA training in the past so he wanted to be outside and focusing on the real rock as much as possible - fine by me.

Euan Whittaker demonstrating a personal abseil, The Hawkcraig, Aberdour

It was a cracking hot sunny day without a cloud in the sky so we jumped into the Land Rover and headed across the bridge to The Hawkcraig at Aberdour. It was high tide when we arrived but we got straight into some personal trading. I climbed with David and he lead a Diff and then I lead Fish Head Arete VD*, while Euan climbed with Steven and checked out our gear placement and anchors at the top. He seemed happy with our personal climbing so we moved on to looking at anchors and building belays with gear, slings, screwgates, and the rope.

Euan Whittaker demonstrating a personal abseil, The Hawkcraig, Aberdour

We then moved our gear up to the halfway platform and Euan demonstrated how to rig and perform a personal abseil to retrieve some stuck gear. Then it was our turn to have a go; we spent the final 40 minutes rigging in a variety of places while the hot sun shone down on us and it's rays reflected of the bright blue sea. We then descended from the platform and packed up our gear. The tide was now far enough out to wander around the corner and inspect the rest of the great crag. I definitely have to go back there for more climbing - what a location!

Euan and Steven enjoying the sun at The Hawkcraig, Aberdour

David Walker enjoying the sun at The Hawkcraig, Aberdour

We headed back to the EICA and called it a day from there. On the way back we drove past the entrance to Rosyth Quarry and Euan pointed out where he wanted us to meet tomorrow morning. It had been a very useful and productive day - I had certainly learnt a lot and hopefully got rid of a few bad habits that I had picked up over the years while trading with a variety of different folk.

My view of my rig before abseiling over the edge of The Hawkcraig, Aberdour

Ankle Injury - Update

My ankle injury may be worse than I first thought - I went for an X-ray in A&E just to be on the safe side and was told that it was just a very bad sprain. I have been off work for the last two days and have been totally resting my ankle and applying ice to it for 10 minutes every hour during the day. I have been using a compression bandage and the swelling seems to be subsiding today. I have extensive bruising all around the outside of the foot and I have hardly any range of movement whatsoever.

Extensive bruising, two days after injury

Once the swelling reduces a little more, I will start to treat it and attempt to stretch it and mobilise the joint more. This time it is a race to get it ready for the tail end of the winter season!

Ankle Fail

I honestly can't believe my luck this past few months!

Ankle sprain

This week I have been back in training and the lads suggested that we kick a football around the sports hall at lunch time - nothing serious, just a kick around. About 15 minutes in, I made a sharp turn and went over on (inverted) my left ankle. It went up like a balloon almost immediately and I iced it as soon as I could. That'll be the trip up North cancelled this weekend then!

On a positive note: my right thigh felt good - now I've just got to fix my ankle!

Leg now fixed

It's been a long road back but I think my right thigh is slowly getting there. After my secondary injury setback in early November, I decided to take a break from the physio and take time to rest properly. I then resumed light training at the end of November and throughout December I have been focusing on mostly light swimming and cycling in the gym. Regular stretching and hot baths have also worked well, as before.

As I said, I haven't pushed things too hard and haven't rushed back into training like before. I have basically had the entire Christmas period off training and I am now very well rested and ready to get back into full training and (hopefully) some climbing. It has been a very frustrating period, as I had some big plans for this winter season after gaining some experience last year. But hopefully there is still time in January and February to fit in a few winter climbs.

Further Leg Fail

This morning I was keen to try some easy sprints in the park, as recommended by the physio. After a very thorough and gradual warmup of 20 minutes or so, I began with some very gentle 1/2 to 3/4 pace 40 metre shuttles. Things were going well and I was feeling good... until the 6th or 7th shuttle. Just as I started to get into my stride, I felt an unmistakable 'pop' on the outside of my thigh/hip. It wasn't sore but I stopped immediately and drove home to ice it asap.

It is now quite sore and stiff and I've clearly pulled or torn something else. It is in a slightly different place at my thigh/hip to the other muscle I injured previously. Needless to say, I'm pretty deflated and frustrated right now but I'll have to wait until Wednesday for the diagnosis from Ross. Let's hope it's not too serious...

Injury and Recovery update

Over the past few weeks I have continued with the weekly physio sessions at SPACE and the daily stretching. I have also been jogging around Harrison Park five evenings in the past 10 days. It's been hard and a little painful at first but my injury is beginning to drive me insane so I am super keen to get back as soon as possible! I'm not enjoying the down time at all - I can't climb so I have been trying to entertain myself with lots and lots of pull-ups.

As well as the jogging and stretching, I have been trying to have a hot bath most evenings in an attempt to loosen the muscles - which seems to work well. Ross has said that he wants me to progress on to some short shuttle-style sprints at 3/4 pace this week - to further stress the muscles. He seems to be pleased with my dedication and progress so hopefully I will be back in action in the next couple of weeks.

GWC Kenya Trip 2010 - Training Weekend

Every couple of years, GWC run a trip to Kenya in the summer holidays. The trip involves many worthwhile charity activities and also incorporates a bid for the summit of Mount Kenya. In order to simulate the amount of ascent that will be faced on Mount Kenya, a training weekend up at Loch Tay was proposed and Fletch had asked if I would come along as a member of staff to help lead on the hill.  Naturally, after doing the SML Training earlier in the year, I jumped at the chance.
The plan was to traverse the Ben Lawers Ridge (5 Munros) on the Saturday and then bag the two other Munros (behind the main ridge) on the Sunday. However, the plans had to change last minute on the Friday night, as it transpired that half of the pupils were involved in hockey matches that were taking place on the Saturday morning in Edinburgh. The only obvious solution was to split the group in half; those that were not playing hockey could continue with the original plan, while the hockey players would climb the other two Munros on the first day (after their hockey matches) and attempt the ridge on the Sunday. Thankfully, I was instructed to stick with the group and the original plan.
We met at GWC at 7am sharp and were soon past Stirling and making our way to Killin. Most of the group took the opportunity to nap and they woke with a jolt as we pulled up at the Ben Lawers Hotel in the minibuses. We set off past the farm and up through the woods, while Jamie drove one of the buses back along the road to the Ben Lawers Visitors Centre and came back in his car and would catch us up. We were soon clear of the woods and out onto the open, grassy south slopes of Meall Greigh. The weather was ok: dry and mild, but not too warm. The sky was cloudy but only covered parts of the ridge ahead. The kids were doing well and the lads were, as usual, trying to show the girls how fit they were by setting a blistering pace out at the front. We weren't worried though, as they would have to slow eventually (hopefully!). The pupils seemed like a great bunch and were all very mature, which made it a pleasure to be with them on the hill. It was a comforting thing to know also, we knew that they had all done at least some Munro walking in the past, thanks to S3 Projects. By the time we were three quarters of the way up Meall Greigh, Jamie had caught us up in no time and we were taking a breather before heading to our first summit. As we sat on the grassy hill, we had a great view back down to Loch Tay where the sun was just creeping through the thick cloud and reflecting on the water - not a bad place to be on a Saturday morning.

Looking South to Loch Tay from the grassy slopes of Meall Greigh

Dramatic shot looking south from Meall Greigh

The mist rolls in over the summit of Meall Garbh

Which way now?!

Not much of a view...

Looking up at An Stuc

After a short break, we pushed on and we were soon standing on the summit of Meall Greigh with a buzzing group of pupils. We didn't hand around, but as we pressed on towards Meall Garbh, the mist well and truly rolled in; covering the top in front of us. Unaffected by this, we took a bearing and heading straight up through the mist to the summit. No view here at all so we steamed on along the ridge to An Stuc. Jamie, Fletch and I knew that the steep ascent up the side of An Stuc was going to be the crux of the day, and possibly the whole weekend, for many of the kids. As we approached the steep sides and looked up, it didn't look as daunting as the kids had envisaged... mainly because we couldn't see a thing because of the mist! However, this turned out to be a blessing; as no one could see how far away the top was! Everyone simply plodded up at their own pace and reached the top with relative ease - we were most impressed. As we stood on the summit for a brief chat and to take a breather, the clouds lifted and we were treated to a tremendous vista all around us. We could now see what we had just concurred and what still lay ahead.

Looking down to Lochan nan Cat as the clouds clear from An Stuc

Crew deep in thought

Looking West from Creag an Fhithich

Ben Lawers

We pressed on along the ridge and over to Creag an Fhithich and found a nice sheltered spot to have a munch. Here, we also had a great view to the west and were able to see over to the two targets for tomorrow. The kids were trying to spot the other group but they were nowhere to be seen - to be fair, I think they wouldn't be long started on their walk, as they hadn't left Edinburgh long ago. Straight after lunch, we just went for it. It was a long but relatively easy climb to the top of Ben Lawers but we were all glad to be at the top. Time for some tea and... lollies?!

Top of Ben Lawers

Lolly time for Fletch

Lolly time for Jamie

But we weren't finished yet; we carried on across the ridge above Creag nan Gabhar, towards Beinn Ghlas. The going was still good and the wind wasn't too strong at all. The ridge was still very grassy and never really 'narrowed', so we had none of the group freaking out at the exposure, or anything like that. We were soon celebrating our fifth and final Munro of the day, standing on the summit of Beinn Ghlas. As we reached the top, one of the lads spotted the other group across the valley on top of Meall Corranaich. Most of the group were now pretty beat after a long day and started to separate into a longer line, as we descended down through the small wood and past the remains of the Shielings, before arriving safely at the visitors centre car park. Everyone had coped brilliantly with the hard day and none of the group seemed particularly tired; very encouraging, considering what still lay ahead tomorrow.
We were staying just along the road at the High Creagan campsite. A very short drive later, and we were all busy putting up tents and cooking various boil in the bag meals on the Trangia stoves. Soon, the hockey group arrived and then it was their turn to get set up for the night. Speaking to Paul, Martin and Fiona, it sounded like they had a great day also and made very short work of the two Munros. After some good chat and some catching up, I turned in... only to be woken up later on by Paul's horrendous snoring! Just like the SML Training week all over again...

Day 2
We woke early the next morning, got packed up and had a good breakfast. Over a brew we talked about the plan; it was decided that Jamie, Fiona and I would take the group that did the ridge yesterday and tackle the two remaining Munros as planned. Fletch decided to go with Paul, Martin and the hockey group and traverse the ridge in the opposite direction to yesterday. We had enough minibuses and cars for the shuttles to work out and for everyone to get back to Edinburgh, so it made sense to do it this way.

Lochan na Lairige

Heading up the grassy slopes of Meall Corranaich

We took our group just up the road and parked the buses at the North end of Lochan na Lairige. There was no warm up; straight up the grassy slopes we went. Any stiffness from yesterday had to be put to the back of our minds - none of the kids were complaining though. We continued to climb due east over the boggy grass until we reached the remains of an old iron boundary fence. We then simply followed this to the summit of Meall Corranaich. And what a boring top it was; a very gradual rounded top with a small cairn with iron posts mixed in - we were also in the clouds, so I guess that didn't help inspire us either. Not wanting to dwell here any longer than was needed, we pressed on along the grassy ridge. As we passed over the top of Coire Liath, the wind picked up and we took quite a buffeting until we turned slightly and stated up the steeper path around to the summit of Meall a' Choire Leith. Not much to say about this summit either; very flat, very round, with a big cairn in the middle. What I can say is that the kids were absolutely elated to be at the top and to have completed the challenge of all 7 Munros over the weekend. A great feeling for everyone indeed.

On the summit of Meall Corranaich

Heading north along the ridge towards Meall a' Choire Leith

After a few photos, we headed back down the path we had just walked up until we reached the bealach before Coire Liath. On the way down, we had a great view of Ben Lawers and the ridge we had successfully conquered yesterday - much to the kids' delight. At the coll, we headed down steeply and around the shoulder of Coire Gorm. We contoured around to the south past the Sheilings and tried not to loose too much height. The going was quite rough here; very wet and boggy in places - a bit of a slog with tired legs! It wasn't long before we had reached the minor road to Glen Lyon and were back in the minibus safe and well, all celebrating a job well done.

Approaching the top of Meall a' Choire Leith

Having a moment...

On the summit of Meall a' Choire Leith

Heading back down to the coll above Coire Laith

On the drive back to Edinburgh, Jamie and I chatted about what a success the weekend had been and how fantastic the group of kids were. They should have absolutely no problem climbing Mount Kenya - good luck!
I must say: the kids were brilliant and what a pleasure it was to help take them up those hills - what a great weekend.

BASP 2 Day Emergency First Aid Course

My weekend was spent at GWC participating in the BASP 2 day Emergency First Aid Course. Our instructor was Rod Mcintosh. I was hoping to do a training course for the Mountain Leader Award later in the year, so I thought this course would fit in perfectly. I had read a lot of first aid books in the past but I hadn't been on any recognised courses so I was very much looking forward to this and having things explained to me properly.

The course was excellent and I got a great deal out of the two days training. It was clear that Rod was extremely experienced in this field and he certainly had a story or two to tell about the various incidents he's been involved in over the years. I found the practical scenarios the most helpful, as this was closer to real world situations. Rod was great at tailoring the course to meet our specific needs when taking groups out into the hills.

I would very much recommend the BASP courses to anyone who is involved in the outdoors and/or interested in first aid. It has nothing to do with skiing, despite what you might think. A very worthwhile weekend.

Climbing Wall Award (CWA) and Abseil Module Training

This weekend was mostly spent at the EICA under the excellent instruction of Nick Crawshaw and Euan Whittaker. Apparently this was the first CWA training course to be run in Scotland. I had put in a fair amount of hours with the GWC Climbing Club over the last few months and felt I had learned a great deal from watching the instructors teach the kids. This made me keen to get more involved with things and then I read online that the CWA was being introduced as an award scheme and that there would be a training course at the EICA. So I signed up straight away; keen to learn all that I could.

It was good to meet new folk that were also keen on climbing. There were a great mix of experience and knowledge in our group. A few were taking the training for similar reasons to me, and others were hoping to make a living by becoming full time climbing instructors. I think it was fair to say that I was one of the least experienced, but that didn't bother me at all; I was keen to learn from the others in the group too. We spent the first day at the EICA looking at group management, belaying, games, various belay devices and we also did some personal lead climbing. As part of the training, we needed to visit another climbing venue; so we headed across town to Meadowbank Climbing Wall. I have to say that this was nothing like any climbing wall I had ever seen before, but very interesting to see how indoor walls have progressed. It was basically a brick wall made from... well... bricks... and mortor, just like the wall of a building. Various bricks were missing or protruding to make surprisingly good hand and foot holds. We joked that this is where house burglars must train, as it was like scaling the walls to break into a building! Joking aside, this turned out to be a great little venue and I learned alot from it. We looked at the anchors, how the ropes were set up, load rating stickers and a little bit of Abseiling. There were large rings located in the floor at the bottom of the wall and we were shown how to belay from them using an Italian (Munter) hitch; an excellent technique I thought.
The next day we were back at the EICA; with the aim at perfecting the set up of abseils indoors. I had climbed outdoors with Richard before and had also seen him set up an abseil at a crag before and he had said to me that the principals were the same, but the anchors would be different. I didn't really have a clue about what to do at the top of a climb outdoors or how to rig a proper abseil so I was very keen to be shown how to do it. To my surprise, it wasn't too difficult or complicated but very important to break it down and follow each step at a time. As expected, the anchors used indoors are always specific, fixed anchors. A bit more practice and a mock assessment concluded a very useful two days. Many thanks to Nick and Euan for a great two days training.