A slow plod over Great Shunner Fell and a few tears

I was away early and checked on the girls just after 7:30am. I wanted to make sure they were up sharp and ready to go, as I knew they had their biggest day ahead of them and were bound to find it tough. From the look of the sky, I could tell it was going to be a scorcher - not a cloud in the sky.

After helping the group get sorted a bit, I left them to pack up camp and headed back Hawes to grab some breakfast. After a bacon roll and a couple of coffees, I managed to blag a lift up to Butter Tubs. Because I knew that the girls were going to find it a tough day, my plan was to walk with them as much as possible today so hitching a lift meant that I could leave the car in Hawes. Before heading up the initially steep slopes and out onto Thwaite Common, I paused to peer into the massive sinkhole - an amazing sight.

Peering into the Butter Tubs sinkhole, Yorkshire Dales

It was a stunning day and I had great views in every direction. I was soon on the summit and chilled for a while, as I waited for the girls to appear. To my delight, I had plenty of company; a few other assessors and their respective groups were passing over the same top at various points that lunchtime. Looking Northeast through my binoculars back down the Pennine Way, I spotted group after group approaching. Unfortunately none met the description of my girls.

Looking Northeast from the summit of Great Shunner Fell, Yorkshire Dales

Eventually, looking rather knackered, the girls arrived at the summit and slumped down to eat their lunch. They said they had found the path out of Thwaite quite steep and very hard going. I tried to cheer them up by telling them that the climbing was over for the day, but it this statement didn't seem to bring them any obvious comfort.

The group walking across the summit of Great Shunner Fell, Yorkshire Dales

The next leg of their route was following the flat plateau to the Northwest and along to the boundary line running along Hugh Seat and Little Fell. This leg wasn't on a path so it was perfect to practice the art of walking on a bearing. Unfortunately visibility could not have been much better, so I had to get the girls to imagine that they were walking in the mist and try to look at their compass as much as possible. At this point however, I could sense very quickly that they were far too tired to care about my ramblings and a lesson in navigation. Progress was painfully slow; so in the interest of hoping to reach camp before dark, I quickly took up the lead. As if things weren't already slow, the next hinderance was the horrible peat hag that we had to negotiate for the next 4km! It was some of the most complex terrain I had come across and we had numerous short steep sections of ascent and descent - but not quite enough to warrant a contour on the 1:50k map. This unpleasantness proved a little too much for a couple of the group and they sat down at one point sobbing to each other. A brief respite and some words of encouragement from the others soon saw them back on their feet again.

The girls were totally wiped by the time we reached the path that lead the way to their campsite at Moorcock. They were also running low on water so I told them to get the purification tablets out and fill up from the stream. It was the home stretch now but it was a real struggle to motivate them and push them on towards camp - it was almost 7pm when we began pitching tents.

Jamie arrived shortly in the minibus and we headed back to Hawes for some grub. An excellent day on The Fells - the girls had done well and will hopefully sleep well knowing that they've got an easy final day tomorrow.

Grinton, Feetham, Gunnerside, Muker and a slow group

The girls had a relatively straightforward route from Grinton to Muker today. There were some light showers in the morning but it turned into a cracking afternoon when the sun came out. As I expected, they struggled with their heavy bags on their first expedition and walked at around 2kmph. This resulted in a rather lazy day for myself and a lot of waiting around. Because this was their first exped, I didn't want to leave them alone or out of sight for too long - just in case they went too far wrong. To my surprise, they still managed to take the wrong track a couple of times and I spied them sitting aimlessly at the side of the road looking rather sorry for themselves.

Looking across the River Swale from Ramps Holme towards Muker, Yorkshire Dales

Keeping a close eye on them, I managed to get them to walk a little faster and eventually they arrived at their first camp in Muker. The look on their faces, as the rain started while they were putting up tents, was priceless to say the least!

Looking across the River Swale from Ramps Holme towards Muker, Yorkshire Dales

After taking through tomorrow's route, making sure they didn't set fire to anything, and seeing them all eat something hot, I headed over the hill to Hawes for the night. Hopefully the girls will be faster tomorrow.

The Dales, Hawes, Grinton and D of E

This evening I drove down to The Dales to assess a group of fifth year girls from George Watson's College on their D of E silver practice expedition. James and I drove down the M6 in convoy and were in Hawes for a spot of afternoon tea by mid afternoon. It was a gloriously hot sunny day and we had made good time driving down from Edinburgh.

Eventually the coach arrived in Hawes and half of the groups got settled into Hawes Hostel. After helping to unload all the gear, I headed over the hills to Grinton Lodge to get the others settled in. On the way there I had a fantastic view over the fells and, looking at the forecast, it was looking like it was going to hold for the next few days.

After sorting out rooms, kit, tents etc, it was time for the traditional English hostel three course meal - magic. I then sat down with the girls and talked them through the next few days. They all seemed a bit unsure about everything. As it turns out, none of them had done bronze before and this was to be their first expedition. It's certainly going to be an interesting few days...

D of E Bonze Practice Expedition - Boys Weekend

This weekend I was back in Glenisla training a group from GWC their Duke of Edinburgh Bronze expedition. This time it was a group of boys. Once again I collected them from Peffermill on Saturday morning and headed North towards Angus.

I dropped the lads at the side of the road at Holm of Needs and saw them safely onto the track leading around Craiglea Hill to the (now derelict) Fornethy Residential School. Someone had mentioned to me that there may be a few fallen trees in the school grounds that might block the tracks so I drove round and headed in to check it out. Sure enough, the trees were lying there like matchsticks across the track but could be safely negotiated by a short detour around the other side of the school.

The boys heading into Torrax Hill Wood, Glenisla

The Gorse nightmare through Torrax Hill Wood, Glenisla

The boys heading into Torrax Hill Wood, Glenisla

After guiding the boys safely to the B954, I shadowed them as they headed East along the path into Torrax Wood. The boys found it tricky to find a way through so I helped them negotiate the large number of gorse bushes that were blocking the way, before heading around to meet them at the bridge over Melgam Water at Loch of Lintrathen.

Looking Southwest towards Loch of Lintrathen from Brankam Hill, Glenisla

Random boulder on the side of Brankam Hill, Glenisla

I then drove down the road and left them to follow me over the hill to Hilton from Purgavie Cottages - and follow me they did... very very slowly! Eventually they met me at the bealach between Strone Hill and The Carrach. The sun was now beating down on us and we made good progress along the track through Gairlaw. I thought it best to walk with them and try to push them on bit, as they were way behind schedule. As we passed a couple of ruined farm buildings at Gairlaw, I looked up to the side of Mile Hill and saw that a white horse was galloping straight for us... and I also saw that there was no wall or gate between us! There wasn't time to think about what to do but even if there was, I'm not quite sure what action I would have taken! To my relief, the horse skidded to an abrupt halt right next to us and started nodding it's head and swishing it's tail in a very friendly manner; clearly the horse just wanted some friendly attention from us. It followed us along the track until we closed the gate behind us, much to our amusement.

The boys passing through Gairlaw, Glenisla

A ruin at Gairlaw, Glenisla

Random horse in Gairlaw, Glenisla

Random horse in Gairlaw, Glenisla

I shadowed the boys East through Garlow Wood and I helped them cross the Quharity Burn to Auldallan before jogging back over the hill to the minibus. The lads eventually made it to their campsite at the bridge over the Quharity Burn just to the South of Westerton and Balintore. The boys had done ok but were extremely slow considering the fine weather. Tomorrow's forecast wasn't looking too inviting so they were going to have to pick up the pace to make the coach back to Edinburgh.

The boys heading down into Garlow Wood, Glenisla

Today was a real dog of a day and the lads set off later than planned. I saw them onto the track heading North past Westerton and on into Glen Quharity; giving them clear instructions to take the path to the left just after the trees through Craig of Balloch.

A misty day at Backwater Reservoir, Glenisla

I headed round to Backwater Reservoir where I parked up at the side of the road and headed up to the top of Little Ley to watch for them coming over. I waited and waited but there was no sign of them and the clouds were getting lower and the rain heavier. I knew they had most probably missed the left turn and continued on into Glen Quharity but with visibility so poor, there was no point in wandering off into the mist looking for them. I wasn't too concerned, but another hour passed and there was still no sign of them.

Dead deer, Glenisla

I drove up and down the road to Glenhead at the side of the reservoir. I then decided to head up through Harran Plantation and try to gain some higher ground. I headed through a break in the forest that was clearly used frequently by the deer. I made swift progress and was soon on the summit of Corwharn but I could still only see 50 metres in any direction. Giving up, I jogged back down towards Drumshade Plantation and then onto the track heading back down to Glenhead Farm.

Heading through the trees in Harran Plantation, Glenisla

When I reached the minibus, I found a note on the windscreen from Tam that said my group had been found wandering aimlessly at the side of the reservoir. Clearly they had gone badly off course at some point! Ah well, at least they were safe and sound - the debrief could wait for later in the week back at GWC - an eventful weekend!

D of E Bonze Practice Expedition - Girls Weekend

This weekend I have been assisting with a group of GWC girls Duke of Edinburgh Bronze Practice expeditions based in Glenisla, Angus.

I collected my group from Peffermill playing fields on Saturday morning (after their Hockey match) and headed North to Glenisla. The group were already packed and I had met them briefly on Wednesday night at school to go through putting up tents and cooking with stoves.

The girls setting off along the road, Glenisla

The girls making their way up the difficult terrain from the Alrick Burn, Glenisla

I dropped the girls off on the minor road, just West of Brewlands Bridge, and I helped them navigate and negotiate their way over the Alrick Burn and pointed them up towards Meall Beag. Then I left them to head over the top of Cairn Gibbs, then onto Knockton before heading East to the minor road above Redlatches. I headed back to the minibus and drove around to the minor road and walked in to meet them at the top of Knockton - I had quite a long wait!

Looking North towards Brewlands Bridge and Mount Blair from Knockton, Glenisla

Looking East from Knockton, Glenisla

Once at the road, I sent them Northwest to the bridge over the River Isla. Again, I drove round to their campsite in Kirkton of Glenisla, just opposite the hotel. I crossed the bridge and expected to see the group somewhere on the hill above me but there was no sign of them. I found them a little way to the East wondering rather aimlessly and puzzled as to how they were going to get across the river to their campsite; they hadn't listened to what I had said.

Once at the campsite, the girls were very efficient at getting their tents up and the stoves going. It had been a good day - the weather had been good and the girls had done well - so I was happy.

Mount Blair from Knockton, Glenisla

The second day saw the girls heading along the easy forestry tracks around Crock and Craigie Law. After checking the condition that they had left their campsite, the girls passed me on the forestry track where I was having a little trouble with the minibus...(!)

The girls heading into the mist up the forestry track around Crock, Glenisla

They left the forest and headed over the South shoulder of Badandun Hill to the track leading West to Little Forter and past The Knaps. After sorting things out, I headed round to Meikle Forter to meet them at their finishing point.

Forter Castle, Meikle Forter, Glenisla

Looking Southwest from the road through Folda, Glenisla

The girls had been very lucky with the weather but had done well on their first expedition and I knew they would be fine on the real thing next year - well done!

D of E Assessing - Northern Pennines 2009

This week I have been helping with Duke of Edinburgh for GWC in the Northern Pennines, based at Ninebanks YHA.

I arrived late on the Wednesday night and only Jamie was still up when I arrived at Ninebanks. After a brief bit of banter and a catch up, we headed to the bunks for a good nights rest. The next morning I met my group for the first time; a Gold Qualifying group of sixth year lads - a nice bunch. The weather that morning was rather dreich; perfect for some micro nav so we set out from the hostel over Mohope Moor. We spent the morning 'finding' various features in the landscape using the 1:50k map. The boys quickly discovered that fences and walls are not marked on these maps... and that there are a lot more of them about down here compared to Scotland! Usually in the D of E groups there is one pupil who is the navigator for the group, so I was keen to try and get them all up to speed and not just be relying on one person all the time. We also looked at pacing and different types of bearings and how to use them. After messing around, we met Jane and her group for lunch on top of Hard Rigg. After a bite to eat, we gave both groups the challenge of leading us all safely to Alston for some afternoon tea. A gentle first day.

Looking South down the track towards Townhead, Pennines

On Friday, the lads left around 9am and the mist was still down. They were heading to first but not across the moor this time. I took the opportunity to grab a cooked breakfast in Alston before seeing them through the village safely - their spirits seemed high, despite the drizzle. Once through Alston, their route took them South and then West, over the river to Leadgate. Here, they joined the A686 for a short time before turning off and heading South along the Maiden Way to Townhead (Camp 1). I saw them join the main road at Leadgate, and then I drove round to introduce myself to the farmer at Townhead. Once I had established which field the lads were to camp in, I dropped off the jerry cans and headed up Muska Hill. By now the mist had all burnt off and it was a glorious sunny day so after Muska, I headed over to the summit of Brown Hill to see if I could spot the lads coming towards me. However, as I gazed across Srony Rigg and along to Melmerby Fell, there was no trace of the group. A little puzzled, I pushed on to the summit of Melmerby to look right along the Maiden Way; but still nothing. Even more confused by now, I re-traced my steps back to the campsite and waited in the car for a while. Just as I was starting to get a little anxious, the lads appeared coming up the road in front of me: the complete opposite way to what they were meant to be doing. They looked shattered, but smiled broadly as they greeted me. After a quick chat, and helping them put up tents, it transpired that they had come down off the ridge too early and ended up in Melmerby - but they understood where they had gone wrong and found their way to camp without difficulty. Pleased by how they were performing and that they were now settled, I left them to it and headed back to Ninebanks for a late supper and a good sleep.

Looking up at Brown Hill from Townhead, Pennines

Nearing the top of Muska Hill, Pennines

On Saturday morning I left swiftly after breakfast to check the campsite and to collect their rubbish - all was well and they had left me a route card to let me know that they had left on schedule. After the farmer had kindly let me fill the jerry cans, I headed up the road to Dufton (Camp 2). After introducing myself to the campsite warden, I drove up towards the radar station on Great Dun Fell. I parked the car at the side of the road, just behind Knock Pike, and set off along the side of the tarmac road. I found this road walking pretty tedious so I hopped over the barrier and contoured up through the gully above Knock Ore Gill - an interesting and very loose scramble! I passed swiftly around the edge of the radar station and joined the Pennine Way to Little Dun Fell and then on to Cross Fell. I was surprised to find a large, multi-sided drystone shelter on the summit, but made good use of it for my lunch stop as I waited for the lads to arrive. It was another fabulous day, with clear views South to The Dales - spectacular. It wasn't long before the lads arrived for lunch and by the look on their faces: didn't expect to see me up there waiting for them. A couple of them were covered in mud and they told me that they had encountered a rather large bog on the way up from Kirkland. I din't hang around long and I left them in good spirits to head back over the ridge to the car. When rounding Great Dun Fell for the second time, I spotted Jane coming around the other side. We walked on a little and had a natter, and then Jamie wandered casually around the corner, coming across the ridge from the other direction - what a coincidence! Jamie said he was heading back to his minibus and I said I would give Jane a lift back down to Dufton. When we arrived there, Tam's group were already at the campsite and all set up. Jane and I grabbed a quick coffee and a cake in the Pub across the road and watched for my lads coming into town. They were bang on schedule and after a quick 'hello' I left them to it and headed back to Ninebanks for the evening.

Radar Station on the summit of Great Dun Fell, Pennines

Great Dun Fell from Little Dun Fell, Pennines

Sunday was a real dog of a day, but not surprising after a glorious two days of sun - it had to break sooner or later. The lads were following the Pennine Way for most of the day but I was a little concerned about them navigating their way through to Cauldron Snout in the thick mist. Tam said he would check the campsite for me in the morning, so I took another opportunity to grab a cooked breakfast in Alston. Afterwards, I went and introduced myself to the farmer at Dale Head (Camp 3) and dropped off a couple of jerry cans for the lads. I then headed down the road to Cow Green Reservoir and parked up at Cauldron Snout. Now it just so happened, that I had my mountain bike with me on the back of the car; and I was very glad I did. I had tremendous fun tearing along the track to Birkdale farm. But if anyone wants any advice for the next bit... be prepared for you lungs to burst! It was a steep and technical climb up a single track with rather large stones to negotiate. Once onto the open ground, there is a nice wooden walkway over the worst of the bog. However, this soon ends and the terrain becomes pure bog and is not cycle-able. I accepted defeat at this point and waited here, hoping that the lads would appear out of the thick fog at some point - I could just about see my hand in front of my face! I had only been resting there for a couple of minutes when I heard singing coming from somewhere in the mist; it was the lads! I was quite pleased to see them and I could tell that they definitely did not expect to come across me there in the mist, much to my delight. They were in good spirits but clearly finding the conditions hard, but they were pleased to now be on the home stretch. I left them and cycled off into the mist ahead of them and back to the car to get warm and to dry off - unfortunately the lads had no such luxury. I grabbed a quick coffee at Langdon Beck before seeing the boys into their final camp and then headed back to Ninebanks.

The lads leaving the summit of Cross Fell, Pennines

On The Screes of Cross Fell, Pennines

Monday was the final day and all the groups, including mine, were to finish in Alston in the afternoon. We all went for an assessors breakfast in Alston before going our separate ways to check on our respective groups. There was no trace of the lads at their final campsite; only their bag of rubbish and the empty jerry cans. I headed back towards Garrigill, hoping to spot them from the road - but visibility was poor and I saw no sign of them. At Garrigill I bumped into Alan waiting in his car for his group to pass through. He then told me rather casually that the lads had pasted through 'ages ago' and I thought that they should be finished by now. A bit gutted to have missed them, I headed back to Alston. I found them all in the cafe happily munching on all-day breakfasts. Once fed and watered, we had a bit of a debrief about how everything went. It turns out that they had decided to get up really early and just get the last few km over and done with. I didn't have a problem with this, it was just a bit of a shame that I wasn't waiting for them at the finish to congratulate them properly. Despite this, I was very impressed with them as a group and I told them this. Sometimes I DO get the good groups after all...

Looking South towards The Dales from Brown Hill, Pennines

All of the other groups finished safely without any drama so all they could do was sit around and wait for the coach to arrive and take everyone back to Edinburgh. I headed home buzzing after a very enjoyable few days in the Pennines and I couldn't wait to go back - what a place! On the drive home, my thoughts turned to Torridon: where Emily and I are heading tomorrow!