A thawing Glen Clova

James and I had a bit of a late start on Saturday, and we didn't get around to leaving Edinburgh until 1pm. However, we made good time and we were soon gearing up in the car park between Glendoll Lodge and Downie.

James gazing into Winter Corrie, Glen Clova

James and I had made some ambitious plans for winter this year but my injuries over the last couple of months had meant that we were yet to get out and do anything together this season. We feared that winter had gone, as the hills looked rather 'green'. Looking across from the car park, we looked up into Winter Corrie and could see that there was probably just 'enough' snow in some of the easier gully lines. We could see from the map that the approach around The Doll to Winter Corrie wasn't going to take us long, so we geared up and headed up the track past Acharn.

Looking back down into Glendoll from the entrance to Winter Corrie, Glen Clova

The approach was very steep after we left the forest, and the ground was also broken and tricky. It also didn't help that my leg and ankle weren't quite match fit! As the ground flattened out, we had a great view into the corrie and we paused to discuss a plan. Looking at the crag, it looked like the only gully line that was almost complete was Central Gully II. With our minds made up, we headed straight for the base of the climb.

Looking down into Winter Corrie from the first belay on Central Gully II, Glen Clove

With our crampons on and our axes in our hand, we pitched our way up the gully. At the car, the temperature had felt quite mild, but there was plenty of ice around and there had clearly been a thaw over the past week or so. Too good an opportunity not to screw in a 'stubby' half way up. As we got higher, the snow and ice was firmer and there was more of it - much to our delight.

James on the first pitch of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clove

Plenty of gear placements were to be had at the sides of the gully and James was soon on the final pitch and over the top. As I followed, I was surprised to find a rather large cornice at the top, that James had managed to cut through and negotiate successfully.

Very bored at the first belay of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clova

It was getting late and the light was fading fast. The most obvious and quickest way down was to abseil down the adjacent gully. Well, it would've been... if we hadn't mistaken the patch of snow, that we descended, for the top of the gully! We quickly ran out of snow and were standing at the top of a steep crag face. Luckily there was a good large flake that we managed to abseil from, but we had a brief moment of cursing when we thought that we were going to have to abandon the rope stuck on the flake. Fortunately it came down undamaged and intact after a bit of brute force.

James on the final pitch and approaching the top of Central Gully II, Winter Corrie, Glen Clove

With our head-torches now on, we looked back up and saw that the descent gully was a little further over to the right of where we had come down - note to self! It was after 9 by the time we reached the car park. A great day that felt like a bit of a mini adventure full of fun.

Driesh and Mayar

Last night I joined up with a few folk from GWC who were on their annual Projects Staff Training weekend. This year the base was the Glen Clova hotel and bunkhouse. Richard G and I had been asked to lead a walk on the Saturday so we drove up late last night in Richard's car.

Looking back down the Glendoll Forest track to Cairn Derg, Glen Clova

Taking a breather in Glendoll before the assault on Mayar

From reading the conditions blogs on the web, I knew that there had been a lot of snow recently and there was even more still on the ground. With this in mind, we didn't fancy doing anything too serious so a circular route taking in Driesh and Mayar seemed like the easiest and most sensible option. In the morning, it meant that we only had a short drive up the road to the car park at Acharn.

Heading up the steep snow slopes in Corrie Fee, Glen Clova

Nearing the top of Corrie Fee, Glen Clova

There was a lot of snow on the ground, as we made our way through the Glendoll Forest and into Corrie Fee. It was a fine day with sun and a clear blue sky - a classic high-pressure day. Many of the group hadn't walked in snow before so Richard and I talked about how to use an ice axe for walking. We had crampons but we didn't need them because there wasn't any ice and the snw was deep and soft.

Approaching the top of Mayar with cornices on Craig Renner and Craig Mellon

Looking west from Mayar over the snowy Cairngorms

It was a bit of a slog up the gully at the end of Corrie Fee but once at the top the ascent was almost done for the day. At the top of Mayar we had a fantastic view over the Cairngorms and we were able to see just how much snow there had been; the hills were covered and well-rounded. We could also see quite a few large cornices at the top of the crags surrounding Glen Clova.

The group on the summit of Driesh

Looking North from Driesh over the snowy Cairngorms

After bagging Mayar we tramped over to the summit of Driesh for more stunning views of the snowy surrounding hills. Our descent took us along the ridge over the Hill of Strone before heading down to the bealach between Cairn Inks and Cairn of Barns. From here we descended Northwest back down to the Hotel for hot showers. A great day for everyone.

On our way down from Driesh, Cairngorms

Glen Clova - Driesh and Mayar from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.