Bynack More

Bynack More - Oct 2012 from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.

Ready for the off at Glenmore Lodge

An Lochan Uaine, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

With the October holidays upon us, Emily and I headed to Nakiska for the week - I was hoping for an early cold snap for the Scotswinter! The weather was looking like it would be best today, with a fresh dump of snow last night. There hasn't been any cold spells to speak of so far so it looked like an early winter climb was out of the question. Instead, we set our sights on Bynack More - the most Northern Munro of the Cairngorms.

Autumn Trees, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

Emily on the cycle in towards the River Nethy, Cairngorms

Looking at the route in from Glenmore Lodge, it looked like quite a way in so we opted to take the bikes. Some good organisation and an early breakfast, saw us getting on our bikes just after 9am. It was a chilly morning and the cloud was low and rain was threatening. Sure enough, a few minutes into our cycle, the heavens opened and we reached for our waterproofs. The track was pretty much a road through the forest and we made swift progress through the trees and arrived at An Lochan Uaine in no time at all. The rain had stopped but still threatened and there was now a fair breeze. We headed down the steps to admire the water, but were halted by a film crew who were busy making a Norwegian dance video. We weren't too put out, as the water was rather 'choppy'.

Looking South down Strath Nethy from the River Nethy, Cairngorms

Heading into winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

Heading on, the track quality degraded and became undulating as we rode through the Ryvoan Pass. We took the right branch of the fork and headed around the corner and up a rather steep incline - much to Emily's disgust. I think it's safe to say that she isn't the biggest fan of cycling up-hill!

Loving winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

Emily heading into winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

After working hard, our reward was a gentle run down to the footbridge across the River Nethy where we left the bikes. Looking South through Strath Nethy, the cloud base was down to around 700 metres but the air was still and the rain still absent. Now on foot, we made quick progress on the good path and gained height quickly. Into the cloud, we stepped into winter and a fair amount of snow and frost. It was interesting to see the vegetation that was all around - it appeared as though everything had been frozen in the state of spring or possibly summer. Due to the return of winter in May this year, many of the new shoots of the plants have been late in emerging; now frozen once again.

Wintery Tors on Bynack More, Cairngorms

Emily enjoying the winter in the Cairngorms, Bynack More

We made swift progress in the cloud along the flat and the snow was a little deeper - possibly two inches. Randomly a woman and young boy appeared in front of us, out of the mist, and walked by. The boy looked frozen and seemed to lack any kind of appropriate clothing; only an anorak. The path then started to climb up the North ridge of the main event: Bynack More. Emily and I were commenting on how new the path looked and how good it was, when I spotted two bright orange jackets in the mist just up ahead. These two guys were braving the weather and hard at work building the rest of the path we were actually walking! We stopped to shake their hands and to thank them for all their hard work - we also commented on the frozen boy we had passed and they agreed that they had also been concerned by his unsuitable clothing - some people...

Emily on the summit of Bynack More, Cairngorms

On the summit of Bynack More, Cairngorms

The path disappeared, visibility decreased and the snow got deeper. I lead the way up the ridge and we passed some interesting (and rather wintery!) granite tors - a welcome sight in the limited visibility. The West side of the ridge was rather blustery so we traversed left to gain shelter and continued up the East side out of the wind. At the the top, we spent a few minutes hunting in the clag for the summit cairn - which we soon found a triumphantly climbed to the top. There was a large amount of fresh snow at the top, but no sign of any ice - much to my dismay! We descended back down the ridge and found a sheltered spot for some lunch. As we set, the cloud started to thin and the sun tried hard to make an appearance... but didn't.

Looking West to Stac na h-lolaire after descending Bynack More, Cairngorms

Looking up towards the North ridge of Bynack More, Cairngorms

We headed down the same way we had ascended the ridge. The path builders had long gone, and as we walked down onto the flat once again, the clouds lifted, the sky turned blue and the sun shone down on us. We had stunning views to the West towards the crags of Stac na h-looaire - stunning. The way back down to the footbridge was extremely enjoyable and we were soon preparing to jump on the bikes. It had been tough going on the way in, but now I was reminded why I had insisted we bike into the bridge; the descent was now fast and exhilarating - much to our delight. In what seemed like a matter of moments, we were standing on the banks of An Lochan Uaine. Its turquoise waters were now completely still and we had it all to ourselves. Now we could see what all the fuss was about in the various guides and literature - this is truly a special place indeed. After snapping numerous photos, we sped back down the remainder of the track to Glenmore Lodge.

Looking Northwest towards Meall a' Bhuachaille, Cairngorms

An Lochan Uaine, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

Before heading back to Nakiska, we stopped at Loch Morlich to enjoy the last of the day's light (and I also wanted to see what the Northern Corries were like!). The loch was lovely and still, as the sun disappeared behind the trees on the faraway bank. Looking up at Coire an t-Sneachda and Coire an Lochain, I could see that there had been a considerable dump of snow, but it looked like it was all melting and things were looking rather black. Nothing looked like it was in condition, so I was happy that we had made the most of the winter day. Things were now feeling rather mild, and I was pretty sure most of the snow would be gone by tomorrow.

An Lochan Uaine, Ryvoan Pass, Glen More

Sunset over Loch Morlich, Cairngorms

We headed back to the car and reflected on what a great day it had been. It had certainly been a day filled with everything that Scotland in winter has to offer.

Cairngorm and the Northern Corries from Loch Morlich

Lairg to Inverness

Day 11 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

It was a wet day, it was a long day, but it was the last day of cycling. We packed up the tents early in the drizzle and shoved some food into us. The kid's spirits were quite low but the talk of the end was enough to motivate them again. We set off in a southerly direction along the A836, which meant we would be on the main road for a while and without much interesting scenery. It was simply a case of heads down and get on with it. Lewis and I decided to bring up the rear of the pack for the first stretch and have a bit of a chat. I was keen to get his thoughts about how he thought the trip had gone. I knew it was quite a significant moment, as it was his final trip as a Project Leader at GWC. He was very pleased with how smoothly things had gone and how good the kids had been. It was nice to hear, as we all wanted it to be a success for Lewis.

Just a bit to go!

Up the hill we go...

We were soon at Bonar Bridge, then Ardgay and it was still raining hard on us. We stopped at the roadside near Fearn Lodge for a breather. The rain had just eased, and Lewis and Pete informed us that we were about to climb up Struie and onto the B9176. We started climbing almost immediately; as we entered Struie Wood. The group was quickly stretched on the steep incline, as some where more tired than others. As was the norm on this trip, the lads were first to the viewpoint where we regrouped. The rain had now stopped but unfortunately visibility was still poor; so nae view on this occasion.

At the viewpoint - but not much of a view today

We pressed on, as we still had a fair few miles of road to cover before the finish line. The plan was to continue without any stops until we reached Dingwall. The group spread out again for the pleasant run through Strath Rory and then skirting past Alness. Here, we were treated to a great view down the Cromarty Firth on the run into Dingwall. I had heard of the randomly abondoned oil platforms in the Cromarty Firth, but it was only now that I was seeing them with my own eyes - and a sore sight it was... very strange indeed.

Abandonment in the Cromarty Firth

We took a lunch stop in Dingwall and headed for the Tescos while the kids amused themselves in the park and tried to keep out of trouble. After a good break and a bit of a re-charge, we set off down the main road out of Dingwall; towards Maryburgh. Somewhere on the road between Conon Bridge and Muir of Ord, JD drove past in the support van... with the side door wide open! A few bits of rubbish and an airborne camping mat later, we had managed to get his attention and persude him to pull over; much to the kids' amusement, of course! With that drama over, we stopped briefly in Muir of Ord. But we didn't stop for long; as the heavens decided to empty right above our heads (again). We headed off and, for the second time on our journey, joined the minor road along the north shore of the Beauly Firth towards Charleston and the Kessock Bridge.

Lunch in Dingwall

We had briefed the kids to engage in frantic bell-ringing on first sight of the bridge - and they humbly obliged with lots of frantic ringing. We stopped at the picnic spot just opposite the hotel for a few photo opportunities. By now the clouds had past and the sun was well and truly out in the sky - typical Scottish weather.

The Team

The Crew

Shattered!

All that was left of our journey was a short ride over the Kessock Bridge (into the wind!) and through the town to Inverness Hostel. The kids were in great spirits and they were all chatting about what a journey it had been and how much they had enjoyed Projects. It was great to hear and I think Lewis really appreciated hearing that kind of chat from the group. We had a quick shower and then headed out for a very well deserved pizza. Lewis gave an emotional speech that was very moving and one of the girls thanked him on behalf of us all and said some great things about the trip. It was a great way to end a fantastic journey. This brought to an end my second GWC S3 Projects. A very different type of trip and activity compared to last year - but the same values, goals, ethics and teachings were there and my time away with Lewis had taught me a great deal. I was very keen to lead a Project of my own next year and I felt ready to do this thanks to the example that had been set on this excellent trip.
The next morning we took the train back to Edinburgh in the sunshine - shattered!

Distance for the day: 50 miles
Total Distance: 334 miles
Route for the day:

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Tongue to Lairg

Day 10 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

After a good nights rest in the very comfortable Tongue Youth Hostel, we started up the hill into the village; a steep climb for the warm up! We then turned the sharp hairpin in the village and continued up the hill. It was a slightly dreary day and was quite chilly - but we knew the end was in sight and that this would be our second last day in the saddle. These thoughts were enough to keep our heads down and the pedals turning.

We turned of the main road at the war memorial and onto the A836 towards Altnaharra. Passing through Braetongue, we had a stunning view to the south with Ben Loyal in the distance - another one to add to the list! This was a nice stretch of road - a steady run along the water's edge. First passing Loch Craggie and then along Loch Loyal. We paused before the first climb of the day at Inchkinloch. Then the heavy traffic started and I started to feel quite nervous for the safety of the group. This was clearly a very busy working forest, with large trucks of freshly felled timber thundering along the narrow road in the slippery wet; time to stop for a brief chat with the kids. Safety talk over, we pushed on and the sun even came out on our faces for a few minutes as we began the descent down into Altnaharra.

First climb of the day...

Timber....!

We stopped for lunch at the Altnaharra Hotel and it was at this point that the heavens opened on us; and I really do mean opened! We all dived for cover under a big tree and shared the joke of how heavy the rain was falling - it was crazy! As soon as the rain eased off, we pressed on up the road and another forestry climb and more heavy traffic.

Pausing for thought

Strange sculpture outside The Crask Inn

The Crask Inn

Our next refreshment stop was the Crask Inn. The only way I can describe it is: one of the strangest places I have ever been. However, the folk were very welcoming and the kids loved the hot chocolate in that remote spot. All that remained of the cycling for the day was a gentle run down through more trees to Lairg.

The campsite was a cracking spot but the weather was still miserable and wet. I helped put up tents with the kids and Lewis and Jane got the pot on, while John and Pete went for some 'refreshments'. Everyone headed to bed early that night - huge last day tomorrow!

Nice weather for ducks!

Lairg campsite

Distance for the day: 38 miles
Total Distance so far: 284 miles
Route for the day:

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Durness to Tongue

Day 9 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

Which way?!

Now well and truly rested, we were all keen to get back on the bikes and get some more miles under our belts. Before we hit the open road however, we decided to take in a couple of the sights of Durness that we didn't see yesterday. Firstly, we stopped at the signposts next to the Oasis Bar for a few group photos. Next, we took the time to visit and explore Smoo Cave. If you're ever in the area then it is certainly worth the walk down into it and is quite an impressive natural feature.

Right, enough sightseeing and now back to business. We set off at a good pace out of Durness and up the headland towards Leirinbeg and Leirinmore. It was another glorious day and this time: hardly a breeze in the air! After the initial climb, we had a very pleasant run along the west shore of Loch Eriboll in the sun. We had some good banter with the kids as we coasted along; they were in fine spirits and I think they finally realised just what an incredible journey this was. Once we rounded the Loch, we began the climb up towards Eriboll and we found a nice little lay by at the side of the road by a small beach to have our lunch. We all took some time to sprawl out on the grassy shore and soak up the rays. In other news: randomly a huge bumblebee landed in Jane's cuppa and committed suicide...

The Team

Smoo Cave

Smoo Cave

DANGER - Falling Rugby Ball??

Smoo Cave

Smoo Cave

Leaving Durness

Loch Eriboll

R.I.P. Mr. Bumblebee

Arty

Battle Scars

Battle Scars

Off again and time to get psyched for the big climb of the day: up and over The Mhoine (A' Mhoine). We had a short and gradual climb and then a nice gentle run down to Hope Bridge and passed Hope Lodge. Then it was upon us. The tarmac quickly steepened and switched back on itself and the chatter stopped. It was now every man for himself, head down and try to keep the pedals turning. I was feeling quite good so I decided to get out of the saddle and powered up it in no time at all and was soon at the top waiting at the plateau; looking south towards Ben Hope. I had a magnificent view as I waited for the others to get up the climb.

A' Mhoine

Ben Hope... and some posers

Next came the 'freewheel challenge', as Lewis called it. We were set off one at a time and we were allowed a run up and to pedal as hard as we could until we were level with the van; parked 100 metres down the road. After that we were to rely purely on gravity to take us down to the causeway at the Kyle of Tongue. This was going quite well, until we were hit in the face by a strong headwind and were forced to pedal and take matters into our own hands. Nevertheless, it was a great run down into Tongue and up a short sharp climb to Tongue SYHA. It was at this point that the heavens decided to open so we quickly unpacked the van and got settled into the hostel. I was very impressed with the facilities and very much enjoyed the hot shower. After dinner, Lewis set a photo slide show going on his laptop of the photos he had taken so far. This was a great laugh and the kids loved it. We had also been left a note by the Tongue/Gairloch Project that the group had written for our group - a nice touch.

'Freewheel Callenge'

Later that evening I popped outside to snap a great picture of the amazing night sky. A great end to a great day.

Night Sky, Tongue

Distance for the day: 30 miles
Total Distance so far: 246 miles
Route for the day:

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