Showing posts with label abseil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label abseil. Show all posts

Friday, November 2, 2012

Single Pitch Award (SPA) Assessment - Day 2

We met at Rosyth Quarry at 9am and geared up in the rain. After a lovely fresh autumn day yesterday at Traprain, the weather couldn't have been more different; it felt like a winter storm was coming. We headed into the quarry and we were each given our first tasks - mine was to rig a releasable abseil anywhere on the crag. I grabbed my gear and headed around the path to the top, trying not to slip and fall in the mud and the autumn leaves.
I soon had my rig ready to go and David was to be my client. Euan had asked him to undo the thread-back buckle of the waist belt of his harness, which I spotted almost immediately. It was an amusing moment, as David when pink and immediately apologised, as he felt bad about being involved in such trickery! David and Chris then ran their rigs of an abseil and bottom-rope respectively.
I was then asked to rig a bottom-rope using a ground anchor. At the bottom of Drizzle S, there was a conveniently positioned large boulder and a thread at the back of it - perfect. I then ran my bottom-rope with bell-ringing using the ground anchor and an italian hitch as the belay. By this time, the rain had turned into quite a heavy shower so Euan gave the word for us to pack everything up asap and make our escape.
We headed back to the EICA for a quick coffee before re-grouping down in the main arena. David was the first to play instructor and took Chris and I through a great 15-minute warm up. Then I took over and treated David and Chris as my two clients who were here for a one-off climbing session. I tied Chris in and gave a quick demo of belaying (up-down-slide-slide) before David took over while I backed up and coached along the way. After practicing lowering down, Euan instructed Chris to pretend to be stuck just over halfway up the wall. I then performed a bottom-rope rescue using my Gri-gri. Then Chris took over and took us through tying in using a figure-of-eight etc.
Euan than said that he was happy with everything that he was seeing from us so he said he wanted to 'workshop' bottom-rope rescues. When I performed my rescue, I tied off my Gri-gri as an 'extra' safety, but Euan told me that I didn't need to and showed us how to do it to avoid slack in the system. He said that what I had done was totally safe but he just wanted to show us how it could be done in fewer steps - very useful indeed and I could see how it was a much simpler method. He then showed us how to self belay on an adjacent climb with a separate bottom-rope. He said that this could be useful on a steep wall when it is difficult to avoid putting weight on the rope when climbing up to the stuck client. Again, very useful.
Euan said that the assessment was now at an end but it would take him a wee while to sort out all of the necessary paperwork so he asked us if we wouldn't mind waiting upstairs in the cafe. After a coffee and a scone, it wasn't long before Euan emerged and told us there and then that we had all passed. It was big smiles all round and after congratulating each other, Euan called me over for my individual debrief.
The feedback was very positive indeed and I was very pleased with how the two days of assessment had gone. He said that I shouldn't stop climbing, as this would make me a better coach and instructor. I told him that I really wanted to get more involved in coaching climbing and he gave some advice about what my next steps should be and what courses to avoid. I was told that now I had my SPA that I would be able to get insurance through MTA and I would then be able to coach at the EICA. Euan also recommended that I should try to attend the BMC's FUNdamentals of climbing workshops and also think about aiming for the Climbing Wall Leading Award (CWLA).
It was a great feeling to get this award done so that I can now move forward with my coaching goals and gain further experience and focus on progressing to the next stage (level). Many thanks to Nic Crawshaw and Euan Whittaker for yet another excellent course. More on Euan's blog.

Sunday, June 3, 2012

Single Pitch Award (SPA) Training - Day 3

As  Blackford Quarry is my local crag I simply walked in through Blackford Glen to meet Euan, David and Steven just after 9am. I was another glorious day and we were all keen to get started. Euan gave each of us a task and told us to treat it like a mock-assessmemt. My task was to set up a top-rope on the main quarry wall, while David rigged a bottom-rope and Steven got cracking with a releasable abseil. It wasn't long before I had my rig set up and attached to the shiny bolts at the top of the main wall.
A releasable abseil rig, Blackford Quarry
A releasable abseil rig, Blackford Quarry
Euan then inspected our setups and gave us some pointers about how to improve our rigs - all very useful tips. We then took it in turns to run our setups with the others acting as our clients, then we rigged something else; we repeated this until we had all had a go at rigging everything that we had practiced yesterday.
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Blackford Quarry
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Blackford Quarry
Euan then asked us to look at the quarry from a group perspective and how it weighed up as a group venue. We all agreed that it was a pretty ideal venue to bring a group for a day's climbing and abseiling. Euan then asked each of us to run a different group warm-up activity and then run a group bottom-rope session and we each practiced the bottom-rope rescue using a self-belay with a prusik.
Steven running a releasable abseil, Blackford Quarry
Steven running a releasable abseil, Blackford Quarry
Rather unexpectedly, the rain came... so we made a dash for the nearby cafe for coffees and a debrief from Euan. He asked me how I thought the course had gone. I had learnt a great deal and I was extremely glad that I had found the time to fit in the training course. He said that he had been impressed with my skills and that I should forget about doing the CWA and concentrate on getting my SPA instead. Apparently I was not far off the standard that he expects for assessment but I was told to climb as much as possible, practice my rescues and get my rigging really smooth. I was told that there was no reason why I shouldn't expect to do the assessment as soon as September 2012 - he said that it was easily possible, as long I was committed and followed his sound advice.
A brilliant few days. Many thanks to the EICA and to Euan for all his advice and support. I'm now super keen to climb as much as possible a finish my SPA.

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Single Pitch Award (SPA) Training - Day 2

We met at Rosyth at 9am and headed straight into the woods to Rosyth Quarry. It certainly wasn't the most picturesque place I had been to climb but Euan said that it was a great place to bring groups. I could immediately see what he meant: there was plenty of space away from the crag, the climbs were quite short, and there were good anchors (ground stakes) at the top. Did I mention the graffiti everywhere?
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope setup, Rosyth Quarry
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope setup, Rosyth Quarry
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope rescue using a y-hang, Rosyth Quarry
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope rescue using a y-hang, Rosyth Quarry
The sun was again out in force and the first thing Euan tasked us with, was for us each to rig a personal abseil - to see if we could recall what we had learnt yesterday afternoon. Happy with what he had seen us rig, Euan then demonstrated how to rig a top-rope - I had seen this done a couple of times but Euan's setup was slightly different to what I had experienced before and it seemed far simpler to me. We then all had a go at rigging our own top-ropes and Euan then demonstrated a y-hang rescue using the spare half of the dynamic rope. It all looked pretty straight forward, but I knew it would probably be more tricky when actually performing the rescue for real. Obviously this is what Euan got us to do next, as we each took it in turns to be each other's client and perform the y-hang rescue. Sure enough, the rescue was not as easy as it looked and really was quite up-close and personal - but it was great fun practicing it on each other.
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope rescue using a y-hang, Rosyth Quarry
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a top-rope rescue using a y-hang, Rosyth Quarry
Then we were shown how to rig a releasable abseil and how to get a client out of difficulty. Again, I had been show this in the past but, again, Euan's rig seemed far superior. We then all had a go at rigging our own releasable abseil and practicing the troubleshooting steps.
Running a top-rope in Rosyth Quarry
Running a top-rope in Rosyth Quarry
Setting up a y-hang rescue on a top-rope, Rosyth Quarry
Setting up a y-hang rescue on a top-rope, Rosyth Quarry
After a (very!) quick snack, we were all asked to rig a bottom-rope on a specific route. Euan then used each setup in turn to demonstrate a group walk-back, bell-ringing using a ground anchor, and a bottom-rope rescue using a Prusik and the self-belay technique.
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Rosyth Quarry
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Rosyth Quarry
It was a lot to take in today but I learnt a great deal and enjoyed every minute of it. After packing up, we headed over the bridge to grab a coffee at the McDonalds and talk through logbooks and the day's events. Before parting company for the evening, Euan told us that we would meet at Blackford Quarry for our final day of training and that he would run it more like a mock-assessment tomorrow because he was happy with what he had seen today.
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Rosyth Quarry
Euan Whittaker demonstrating a releasable abseil, Rosyth Quarry