Beinn Alligin

Today we were going to make an assault on Beinn Alligin.
It was a damp but mild morning, as we geared up in the car park above Torridon House. The kids were in great spirit and raced up the new path to the plateau before the entrance to Coire nan Laogh. As we entered the corrie, the group were absolutely buzzing and they were in great spirits about the great time they were having - very nice to hear. I remember the corrie being steep from being up here last October on a scouting mission with Emily, but I certainly don't remember getting to the top so quickly! Everyone was doing brilliantly and we all linked arms for the short walk up to the summit of Tom na Gruagaich. It was rather windy at the top but the clouds had cleared and we were blessed with a great view of the main ridge leading to the mighty Sgurr Mor and The Horns of Alligin.

Entering Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin

Looking down into Coire nan Laogh and Loch Torridon, Beinn Alligin

After admiring the view, we pushed on along the ridge and with James' help, we spotted the kids through 'the tricky step'. The wind was now well and truly buffeting us but the kids were troupers and powered on without any complaints - they really wanted to get to the top and bag the second peak of the day.

Team effort approaching the summit of Tom na Gruagaich, Beinn Alligin

We stopped to peer into the impressive Eag Dubh (Black Cleft) before the final slog up to the summit of Sgurr Mor.

Sgurr Mor and The Horns of Alligin (Na Rathanan) from the summit of Tom na Gruagaich, Beinn Alligin

The group had made amazing time and we had been really lucky with the weather. James and I had chatted about how we could manage the group going over The Horns if the conditions were right (we planned to split the group in half and take 6 each under our wing). But today the conditions were far from reasonable and it was an easy decision to turn back and head home the way we came.

Heading along the main ridge towards Sgurr Mor, Beinn Alligin

As we approached the col below the ridge leading back up to Tom na Gruagaich the wind really picked up, the clouds rolled in around us and I was very happy that we made the decision to turn back - a great call.

Eag Dubh, Beinn Alligin

Once again, the kids set a blistering pace on the descent and we were back at the hostel in no time. There was time for a quick shower and a change before we headed along the road to the Torridon Inn for a good evening meal; a treat for the group and the perfect way to say goodbye to Margot, who was leaving us in the morning.

The group on the summit of Sgurr Mor, Beinn Alligin

James and I were buzzing that we had just done a 'smash and grab job' on the magnificent Beinn Alligin with the kids in double-quick time - what a feeling, what a day!

Torridon & Gairloch Reflections

After a fantastic few days exploring Torridon & Gairloch, I had time to reflect on what a successful trip it was. I know felt much better about leading the 2010 Torridon Project and was confident that I knew the area well enough to formulate some plan Bs.

It really highlights just how worthwhile it is going to check out a specific place before taking a trip/group there.
Here's a wee video I made to sum up our time in Torridon & Gairloch:

Torridon - October 2009 from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.

Beinn Alligin

After a great few days in the Northern Pennines, I arrived home on Monday evening and had to pack up the car again in preparation for our drive to Torridon yesterday. I had been asked to lead the GWC Torridon Project next year and I had happily agreed to this - on the condition that I would need to go and check out the area first (having only been through there briefly in the past). So, Emily and I made the long drive North yesterday and got ourselves settled into the highly recommended Torridon Hostel. Today, I wanted to check out Beinn Alligin. I had a few other hill in mind that I wanted to do with the kids but the one that concerned me the most was Beinn Alligin so I thought it was best to explore it and make a decision afterwards. From a variety of research and much reading, it seemed that the 'normal' route circles the entire mountain in a clockwise direction, leaving The Horns of Alligin until last. Given my experience, I wasn't comfortable about taking a group over The Horns so the other option seemed to suggest returning to the summit of Tom na Gruagaich after Sgurr Mor and back down Coire nan Laogh - the route of ascent. However, I've never been a fan of descending the same way as you came and much more prefer circular routes, as I'm sure many others do also. With this in mind, I had read that there was a possible 'escape' route down to the west of the coll at Fasreidhnean Beinn Alligin. This route descends down towards An Reidh-choire and then follows the deer fence back to the beginning in an anticlockwise direction. The books say that this is an extremely long and unpleasant way down but I was curious to check it out, as it may make for a more entertaining route with the kids.

Beinn Alligin in the clouds

Looking South from Alligin across Loch Torridon

We were up early and made the short drive through Torridon village to the car park by the waterfall on the Abhainn Coire Mhic Nobuil. As we left the car and gazed up at Alligin, we couldn't see the summit of Tom na Gruagaich and the mountain was completely covered in mist. Despite this, it was a fine day and we weren't complaining, as the forecast for the UK this week was really quite horrendous. However, on this occasion, it seemed that Torridon had found itself in it's own wee weather bubble; and as we made our way up the initial steep incline on the excellent path, we joked about how mild it was for this time of year. The going was swift on the good path with the big steps and we were soon at a height of around 400 metres, where the incline levelled out somewhat. Here, we paused and took the opportunity to gaze up at the summit and the entrance into the spectacular Coire nan Laogh. As the cloud had now lifted, the air was very clear so we had great views of Beinn Dearg, Liathach and through the Torridon Forrest to the mighty Beinn Eighe. After pausing to catch our breath, we pressed on and rounded the corner of Na Fasreidhnean and into Coire nan Laogh. Here, the path is still excellent (clearly a great deal of work went into laying it) and winds it's way up to the top of Coire nan Laogh following the stream. On entering the corrie, I had spotted a steep gully on western wall that seemed to lead all the way to the head. On closer inspection, it looked even more interesting and inviting and it certainly had more appeal than stepping up the path. After a brief chat we simply headed straight up and were rewarded with a most enjoyable, easy scramble to reach the grassy plateau with no one in sight. We sat in our t-shirts to have a bite for lunch, so that gives an indication of how still and mild the air was today.

Looking into the magnificent Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin

The mighty Na Rathanan, The Horns of Alligin

Looking East through the Torridon Forrest from Coire nan Laogh

Emily scrambling up the steep side of Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin

Loch Torridon from the top of Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin

The Skye Cuillin from the top of Coire nan Laogh, Beinn Alligin

On the grassy slopes of Tom na Gruagaich with Loch Torridon behind

After lunch, we had a short stroll over to the large summit cairn of Tom na Gruagaich, where we took in the breathtaking view of Sgurr Mor and The Horns of Alligin (Na Rathanan). I can't really describe how much there was to take in: stunning views in every direction and even the Cuillin of Skye were clearly visible. I was sure that this must be one of the most amazing views I have seen to date - what a setting. It was also a special moment as it was Emily's first Munro - very well done, Mily!

We headed North down the narrow ridge towards Fasreidhnean Beinn Alligin over a couple of tricky steps but nothing that wouldn't be 'manageable' with a group - great fun actually. On reaching the col, we looked up at the summit of Sgurr Mor and The Black Notch (Eag Dubh). It was tempting, but I wasn't too fussed about going to the top of this one, as I knew I would be back in the near future so I thought it better to save it for another day. Instead, we headed down the steep grassy slopes to the West towards An Reidh-choire. As we started the descent, we looked back and spotted a large heard of Red Deer above us - what a day!

Sgurr Mor and The Horns of Alligin (Na Rathanan), Beinn Alligin

Tom na Gruagaich Summit, Beinn Alligin

Red Deer on the side of Sgurr Mor, Beinn Alligin

The slope was steep, pathless and boggy in places. It was not fast, easy-going or in any way a pleasant route to take. It turned into a relentless bog-slog that was never-ending and it was very late when we eventually made it back to the car with our head touches. I certainly wouldn't recommend this route to anyone, unless they had no other option but even then I can't see why you would go that way - in winter it would be a serious undertaking. The way down the good path back to Tom na Gruagaich and down Coire nan Laogh is by far the more sensible and better option. On the plus side, we were treated to a spectacular sunset to the West and despite the epic journey down, it was a great day and well worth exploring as I now feel great about taking the kids up there... bring it on!

Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin

Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin

Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin

Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin

Sunset from An Reidh-choire, Beinn Alligin

Kinlochewe to Sconser

Today, there would be no climbing or walking or biking... only driving. Luckily, it was through some of the best scenery there is; so not so bad.

Beinn Eighe, Torridon

We left Kinlochewe shortly after 9am and headed along the single-track road to Torridon. Almost immediately, we were treated to a spectacular view of Beinn Eighe to our right - amazing. When we reached Torridon, we turned of the main road and headed through the village and continued past Beinn Alligin towards Diabeg. If you're not a confident driver and don't really have a head for heights, then this isn't the road for you - you have been warned! I thought it was great fun, however, and there is a viewpoint at the highest point of the road that gives spectacular views down over Loch Torridon. After taking in the views, we headed back to the main road and continued on towards Lochcarron, before turning off onto the tourist route around the Applecross Peninsula - another crazy road in places. Once at the headland, we were treated to great views across Skye and Raasay. Unfortunately the mighty Cuillin were engulfed in thick cloud on this occasion - gutted.

Loch Torridon from Upper Diabeg

Applecross Peninsula

Next was a quick lunch stop at the Applecross Inn for a pint of prawns and some crusty bread; highly recommended. Then it was time to head over the famous Bealach na Bà (once again: not for the fainthearted!). This I was most looking forward to, as I had heard so much about it. It didn't disappoint and the scenery is simply breathtaking - watch out for bikes! On our way down, Emily spotted some climbers on what looked like a huge multi-pitch route right up the nose of one of the buttresses. It looked simply awesome - one for the bucket list indeed.

Bealach na Bà

Bealach na Bà

Bealach na Bà

Bealach na Bà

Climbers at Bealach na Bà

Climbers at Bealach na Bà

The remainder of the drive was fairly uneventful but the scenery was still amazing and the rain had stayed away. Unfortunately, as we crossed over the Skye bridge, the Cuillin were still covered in cloud. We arrived at Sconser Lodge in time for an excellent dinner. Tomorrow evening we would take the Calmac ferry from Uig to Tarbert to explore Harris and Lewis.

Diabeg to Torridon from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.

Kinlochewe to Laide

Day 3 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

After a disturbed nights sleep (thanks to JD's snoring!), I was actually quite glad to be up and back in the saddle again. It was another hot one - and no breeze again. Suncream time kids!

I set the pace from the off and we were speeding out of Kinlochewe at a fine rate of knots. However, we were soon stationary again as we spotted the GWC Torridon Project group at the side of the road opposite the Beinn Eighe nature reserve. Obviously we had to stop for a wee reunion! The group were in great spirits and were gearing up to tackle the giant hill of Beinn Eighe. As we set off again, I have to say that is was quite jealous that I wasn't going with them! However, I had a sneaky suspicion that I would be back next year leading the Torridon Project, as I knew that Ian was leaving at the end of the year and there was growing pressure on me to get more involved with things.

On our way again

The mighty Slioch

Head now back in the game and setting a good pace again as we made the long and gradual climb towards the single track road to Gairloch. We had great views across Loch Maree and Slioch standing tall in the sun. As we passed Slattadale, we turned into a rather nasty headwind. The climb was harder than I had imagined and the strong wind really took it out of us and as we reached the narrow road, we paused for a breather at a parking bay next to Loch Bad an Sgalaig. We chatted to the group about the next tricky downhill section that we had to negotiate safely. After taking a moment to enjoy the views across to Beinn Alligin, we continued on in the sweltering heat.

Taking a breather

Thankfully there wasn't too much traffic on the road and we got a lovely run down into Gairloch. We took a left at the Spar and along the front by Strath Bay and came to rest at The Mountain Coffee Company cafe. Time for a spot of lunch and one of their famous 'mountainous' scones! It was a great spot sitting out in the sun and taking in the view across the bay and out to sea. What a spot...

The view from Gairloch

Arty shot

Now the fun was about to begin. I had looked at the route profile of the day's route earlier and I was quite aware that we were now faced with a bit of a climb out of Gairloch towards Poolewe. It came a bit without warning and just after lunch! I found it quite tough and it certainly stretched the group out in a long line. As we climbed higher, I spotted a couple of crags on the left hand side of the road that I recognised from the guide books. Aztec Tower and Grass Crag were the most obvious to me and I made a mental note for a future climbing trip up here.

1st climb of the day complete

Next, we had a steep run down into Poolewe, where we had a stop by the river to take in a bit of sun. The kids were doing really well, as this was their first 'proper' test - but they were glad of another break. We then had another steady climb up to the viewpoint overlooking Loch Ewe and the Isle of Ewe. We knew that the run down into Aultbea was steep and because it was such a nice day, we thought it would make a great photo opportunity so we decided to stop at the viewpoint too. I also took the opportunity to tell the kids about Gruinard Bay and Gruinard (Anthrax) Island. I think they were quite shocked and surprised at this story but because of their age they also loved it. We set them off in a staggered start and got some good pictures of them heading down the zig-zags.

Taking in the sun at Poolewe

Viewpoint

Lewis and JD

The descent

All that was left was a fairly straightforward run along to the campsite by the beach at Laide. Obviously the kids were more tired after a much harder day in the saddle ans were a bit reluctant to get the van unpacked and the tents up. We put the grub on asap to try and lift spirits; it worked a treat! A few of the machines were showing a few 'niggles', so Lewis and I set about on some repairs as the sun faded. Later, we sat in the back of the van and shared a wee dram with JD. Another great day.

The beach at Laide

Some repairs!

Distance for the day: 34 miles
Total Distance so far: 84 miles
Route for the day:

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