Today was my first experience in the field of winter climbing... and I loved it!
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| Nearing the top of Patey's Route IV 5*, Coire an t'Sneachda |
Richard T had suggested that we get a group of us together from GWC to do some guided winter climbing. Wanting to gain more winter experience I immediately jumped at the chance. In the end, seven of us were keen so we headed up to Nethy Bridge on the Saturday evening in a school minibus. We had booked three guides for the day: Adam, Nick and Matt. We left early to meet them at Cairngorm ski centre car park at 8am. As we drove up to the ski centre, it became clear just how much snow there had been; it was stacked at least six metres high on either side of the road! I remember thinking: we could just get out and do some climbing here!
We geared up and headed Southwest along the already-cut track, through the deep snow towards Coire an t'Sneachda. It was a classic high pressure day: clear sky with little wind. As we approached the base of the corrie, I could not believe just how white everything was. We stopped and were told to put on our harnesses, helmets and crampons. Adam said that he would take Jamie and James and climb something fairly serious and that Matt would take Richard G and myself to climb something a little easier. Richard T was keen to look at bringing others up easy gullies safely so Nick said that he would take Richard T, Ali and Martin. With that, we split. Matt gave us a very short briefing and all of a sudden we were zig-zagging our way up through the deep snow to the base of a steep gully. On the way, Matt told us how to place our feet and use our axes effectively. I had never done this before so it was great to be shown how to do things properly.
I didn't own a set of crampons so I had hired a set from Tiso from the weekend. The chap in the shop had told me that they had just been sharpened - I didn't doubt him, as they looked razor sharp. Last week, Richard T had got a good deal on a set of Edelrid Excalibur Pros (Adze and hammer). I had a bit of extra cash and figured it would be a good investment. Probably overkill for what I would ever need but everything else that wasn't quite as aggressive was actually more expensive anyway. On another lucky note: a few weeks ago I had been at the EICA with the GWC climbing club and spotted that Tiso were selling off some of their pairs of Scarpa Mantas (something about them having changed the GSB crampon attachment or something?) for dirt cheap and there just so happened to be a pair in my size - result!
So I had all this new gear but had never used it, but I was now loving being shown how to put everything to good use and how to use it the correct way. Mat was great and very encouraging, which made things a lot easier and very enjoyable. The route we were climbing was Patey's Route IV 5* and as I stood belaying Mat as he disappeared in a flash up the snow covered gully, the whole situation suddenly seemed very real and overwhelming. Was I really doing this? What an amazing situation to be in. I was certainly going to give it my all. Mat climbed first on each pitch and then brought us up second; one slightly ahead of the other each time. Each pitch got steeper and it certainly was 'proper' climbing - to me it was anyway. At one of the belays, as Richard held onto Matt's rope, I took the time to take in the surroundings. I looked around the corrie and realised that there were teams of climbers everywhere; black specs dotted about the white crags all around the corrie. It also struck me just how much noise there was folk shouting to their team members on the climbs. I looked below us and saw that there was a team of two climbers waiting patiently at the previous belay - a busy day in Sneachda! As the gradient increased and the ice became firm, I tried my best to use the front points of my crampons and keep my heels down, like Matt had shown us.
We were soon at the top and I was glad because my gloves had frozen solid and I could just about feel my numb fingers. We all congratulated each other and then headed along the top back to Fiacaill a' Choire Chais. I knew where were where at this point, as I had been up here before with Emily in October 2008. We came across some evidence of a winter ML training course and there were plenty of snow bollards that must have been used to practice abseiling. Mat explained how they worked and said that it was a shame that we didn't have more time because he would gladly have shown us and got us to try it out for ourselves. It looked really cool and I had only every read about it so I will certainly add my winter ML training to my list of things to do... it's a very long list...
We met up with the others back at the car park and we were all beaming at each other all the way back to Edinburgh. I loved every minute of the day and hopefully I can put my new skills to good use in the future - no I know a little bit more about what I'm doing.
More details of the day on Adam Hughes' Blog.
