Tongue to Lairg

Day 10 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

After a good nights rest in the very comfortable Tongue Youth Hostel, we started up the hill into the village; a steep climb for the warm up! We then turned the sharp hairpin in the village and continued up the hill. It was a slightly dreary day and was quite chilly - but we knew the end was in sight and that this would be our second last day in the saddle. These thoughts were enough to keep our heads down and the pedals turning.

We turned of the main road at the war memorial and onto the A836 towards Altnaharra. Passing through Braetongue, we had a stunning view to the south with Ben Loyal in the distance - another one to add to the list! This was a nice stretch of road - a steady run along the water's edge. First passing Loch Craggie and then along Loch Loyal. We paused before the first climb of the day at Inchkinloch. Then the heavy traffic started and I started to feel quite nervous for the safety of the group. This was clearly a very busy working forest, with large trucks of freshly felled timber thundering along the narrow road in the slippery wet; time to stop for a brief chat with the kids. Safety talk over, we pushed on and the sun even came out on our faces for a few minutes as we began the descent down into Altnaharra.

First climb of the day...

Timber....!

We stopped for lunch at the Altnaharra Hotel and it was at this point that the heavens opened on us; and I really do mean opened! We all dived for cover under a big tree and shared the joke of how heavy the rain was falling - it was crazy! As soon as the rain eased off, we pressed on up the road and another forestry climb and more heavy traffic.

Pausing for thought

Strange sculpture outside The Crask Inn

The Crask Inn

Our next refreshment stop was the Crask Inn. The only way I can describe it is: one of the strangest places I have ever been. However, the folk were very welcoming and the kids loved the hot chocolate in that remote spot. All that remained of the cycling for the day was a gentle run down through more trees to Lairg.

The campsite was a cracking spot but the weather was still miserable and wet. I helped put up tents with the kids and Lewis and Jane got the pot on, while John and Pete went for some 'refreshments'. Everyone headed to bed early that night - huge last day tomorrow!

Nice weather for ducks!

Lairg campsite

Distance for the day: 38 miles
Total Distance so far: 284 miles
Route for the day:

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Durness to Tongue

Day 9 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

Which way?!

Now well and truly rested, we were all keen to get back on the bikes and get some more miles under our belts. Before we hit the open road however, we decided to take in a couple of the sights of Durness that we didn't see yesterday. Firstly, we stopped at the signposts next to the Oasis Bar for a few group photos. Next, we took the time to visit and explore Smoo Cave. If you're ever in the area then it is certainly worth the walk down into it and is quite an impressive natural feature.

Right, enough sightseeing and now back to business. We set off at a good pace out of Durness and up the headland towards Leirinbeg and Leirinmore. It was another glorious day and this time: hardly a breeze in the air! After the initial climb, we had a very pleasant run along the west shore of Loch Eriboll in the sun. We had some good banter with the kids as we coasted along; they were in fine spirits and I think they finally realised just what an incredible journey this was. Once we rounded the Loch, we began the climb up towards Eriboll and we found a nice little lay by at the side of the road by a small beach to have our lunch. We all took some time to sprawl out on the grassy shore and soak up the rays. In other news: randomly a huge bumblebee landed in Jane's cuppa and committed suicide...

The Team

Smoo Cave

Smoo Cave

DANGER - Falling Rugby Ball??

Smoo Cave

Smoo Cave

Leaving Durness

Loch Eriboll

R.I.P. Mr. Bumblebee

Arty

Battle Scars

Battle Scars

Off again and time to get psyched for the big climb of the day: up and over The Mhoine (A' Mhoine). We had a short and gradual climb and then a nice gentle run down to Hope Bridge and passed Hope Lodge. Then it was upon us. The tarmac quickly steepened and switched back on itself and the chatter stopped. It was now every man for himself, head down and try to keep the pedals turning. I was feeling quite good so I decided to get out of the saddle and powered up it in no time at all and was soon at the top waiting at the plateau; looking south towards Ben Hope. I had a magnificent view as I waited for the others to get up the climb.

A' Mhoine

Ben Hope... and some posers

Next came the 'freewheel challenge', as Lewis called it. We were set off one at a time and we were allowed a run up and to pedal as hard as we could until we were level with the van; parked 100 metres down the road. After that we were to rely purely on gravity to take us down to the causeway at the Kyle of Tongue. This was going quite well, until we were hit in the face by a strong headwind and were forced to pedal and take matters into our own hands. Nevertheless, it was a great run down into Tongue and up a short sharp climb to Tongue SYHA. It was at this point that the heavens decided to open so we quickly unpacked the van and got settled into the hostel. I was very impressed with the facilities and very much enjoyed the hot shower. After dinner, Lewis set a photo slide show going on his laptop of the photos he had taken so far. This was a great laugh and the kids loved it. We had also been left a note by the Tongue/Gairloch Project that the group had written for our group - a nice touch.

'Freewheel Callenge'

Later that evening I popped outside to snap a great picture of the amazing night sky. A great end to a great day.

Night Sky, Tongue

Distance for the day: 30 miles
Total Distance so far: 246 miles
Route for the day:

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Durness - Official Rest Day

Day 8 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

Balnakeil Bay

Unfortunately there would be no cycle to Cape Wrath today; due to the military exercise that was in full flow. I have to say that I was quite gutted that we wouldn't get out there but I was also thinking that it was a great excuse to come back and add to the never ending to-do list!

First thing after breakfast we had some very welcome visitors: the Durness Project. Once again, it was nice to see some familiar and friendly faces and it seemed they were just as excited to see us. They had a few tales to tell from their first week in Durness and how the wind that had made our cycling difficult had also stopped them from reaching the summits of their target hills. We were then asked if we would like to take part in a football match this evening. JC explained that some of the locals had asked them to have a game with them on the pitch just over the road and we were more than welcome to join in as well. Obviously my face lit up at this idea straight away so I immediately volunteered and roped in some of the boys at the same time - excellent stuff!

Once the Durness group left us to it, we geared up for our short cycle to Balnakeil Bay. This was to be our base camp for most of the day - and what a day it was. The sun and the blue sky was just what we wanted for a day on the beach. After the short run down the road, we left our bikes on the grass next to the ruined church on the edge of the dunes - amazing spot. I took a moment just to take in the setting and how stunning the beach was that lay before us. Lewis said that if we walked along the beach and followed the track north and over the small lump, there was nicer bay that was more sheltered... so we set off.

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Bay

Balnakeil Bay

It was great to chill out and get some sun on the beach. It was so warm that we even all went in for a paddle. The kids had a great time playing football, rounders and 'ring of fire'.
Mid afternoon we headed back to the bikes and made our way back up the hill from the beach. It would've been rude not to take the kids for the best hot chocolate in Scotland, so we made a stop at Cocao Mountain at Balnakeil Craft Village. If you've never been, I can only describe it as AMAZING HOT CHOCOLATE! It's almost worth the journey to Durness by itself! Needless to say; the kids loved every drop of it... and so did the staff!

The Big Match

We headed back to the hostel to get the grub on for tea and then to warm up for the big match. It turned out that only three members of the local team showed up for a kick about but there were more than enough GWC staff and kids to make up a 9-a-side game. I have to say that the game was taken quite seriously and it ended a very fair 4-4. It was another very memorable day of GWC Projects.

Home Sweet Home

Scourie to Durness

Day 7 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

A moment to myself...

I was hoping to wake up feeling refreshed and ready for action after yesterday being a rest day, but instead I woke feeling sluggish; perhaps caused by JD snoring all night in the tent a few feet away from me. He brought me a cup of tea to my tent door with a grin on his face and I knew straight away that the gazebo had been obliterated in the night; a comical sight indeed. John was also very proud of the porridge that he had just made, the wooden spoon standing up straight in the middle of the pot. During breakfast I had a 'moment' where I spaced out a little due to feeling rather knackered and Lewis kindly snapped a picture of me at that exact moment.

Hilarious

Perfect porridge

After everyone had sorted themselves out (me included!), we hit the road for the relatively easy day ahead. It was a cool, dry day with little wind - perfect for cycling. The first few miles were pretty easy going and we were crossing Laxford Bridge in what seemed to be no time at all. Around 11am we stopped at the Rhiconich Hotel for a hot chocolate stop for the kids. One of the kids played out a few tunes on the dining room piano - a very talented young lad indeed.

John

Hot chocolate stop at the Rhiconich Hotel

We pressed on; passing the turning to Kinlochbervie to start the long and gradual climb up and over to Gualin. Surprisingly, the going was good despite the definite chill in the air. I kept in a big gear and just powered through and wound up the momentum; gradually picking up speed. We all made good time, as we were all well rested after yesterday's unplanned break. We had a long lunch stop at the bridge at Drochaid Mhor and the sun decided to join us - an idyllic setting.

Lunch at Drochaid Mhor

Lunch at Drochaid Mhor

Leaving Drochaid Mhor

After a good break, all that remained was a nice run into Durness that was only a couple of miles. We rounded the corner and immediately had a glorious view of the sandy inlet at Rubh' a' Ghrudaidh and the turquoise Atlantic. We were enjoying every moment of this run and had built up a good pace until... we encountered the Germans, their stupidly big camper vans, and their lack of respect for cyclists on a single track road! Absolute rudeness - not to mention dangerous! Once seeing the group through that minor ordeal, we cruised downhill into Durness.

Approaching Durness

Approaching Durness

Approaching Durness

Approaching Durness

We headed straight for the hostel to get settled in and to unload the van. Unfortunately, on arrival, Lewis discovered that there had been a bit of a mix up with the rooms and there wasn't enough staff beds. Camping didn't bother me one bit and Lewis said the same so we quickly pitched our tents on the front lawn without a second thought. We got the dinner going and we talked about the plan for tomorrow - it was our planned rest day but, as we'd already had an unplanned one, Lewis was keen to try to cycle out to Cape Wrath with the group. Unfortunately the warden quickly informed us that they had been bombing the heck out of the place all week and it wasn't due to finish until Tuesday. That was that then. A day on the beach for us instead! Shame!

A room with a view!

'Papped' by Lewis

Distance for the day: 25 miles
Total Distance so far: 216 miles
Route for the day:

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Clachtoll to Scourie

Day 6 of GWC S3 Projects 2009

JD and I in full flow

After a battering in the tent overnight, we were all feeling rather jaded - to say the least! The kids were ok and seemed to have quite enjoyed the unexpected drama of the previous night. However, it was still blowing a gale and we made the call that it was too dangerous for the group to cycle today. There was, however, one small problem: our lack of transport in the form of a minibus...

A quick phone call from Lewis to the Sutherland Project leader and half an hour later, we had a minibus at the campsite. A crowd of friendly faces was just what we needed after the terrible night we had just experienced.

We loaded the kids into the bus and headed along the steep and winding road to Scourie. I have to say that I was quite gutted not to be having a go at the cycle today; as it was this stretch that had been the most talked about and hyped part of the route. Lewis and Pete had mentioned a few times that this road contained the infamous and dreaded 1 in 4 climb. As the bus struggled up the steep tarmac switchback, I thought it looked like a possible challenge and was tempted to get out with my bike and give it a go - but there were more pressing matters to attend to.

Machines with Scourie Bay behind

Scourie Campsite

We arrived safely at Scourie Campsite, and I was very pleased to learn that it was well sheltered from the wind. Lewis, John and I helped the kids put up the tents that had survived the night, while Pete and Jane drove back to return the minibus and fetch the bikes in the van. The kids were all shattered after a poor nights sleep so we took the opportunity to have some downtime and have a nap and visit the local Spar. Lewis, John and I visited the cafe and enjoyed a coffee and a piece of cake and chatted about how good a decision it was not to cycle today. The campsite had good facilities, so after a good hot shower we decided to put Pete's gazebo up. Lewis and I had concerns that it would just blow over later on or during the night, but Pete was having none of that chat and it was up standing in no time at all.

Gazebo action

After dinner, spirits were high again - especially after a good rest. Lewis had a great idea of having a fire on the beach and letting the kids toast marshmallows; great idea! The kids had soon gathered a healthy stack of wood and the fire was going in no time. We spent a great night next to the fire into the wee small ours chatting with the group and eating crispy S'mores - magic.

Beach at Scourie

Fire!

Distance for the day: 29 miles
Total Distance so far: 191 miles
Route for the day:

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