Traprain Law

Over the past week, Emily and I have made two evening visits to Traprain Law (East Lothian) for our first 'real' attempts at some Trad climbing. Having broken ourselves in gently with some sport climbing in Gairloch, I hadn't really used most of my new gear, so I was keen to put it to more use on the rocks this summer. I had purchased a copy of the Lowland Outcrops guidebook and at first glance, Traprain Law looked like it had quite a few easy routes. Some folk at work had suggested Rosyth Quarry but I wasn't sure it was the best idea, as it may well have been full of young 'layabouts'.

Setting up the belay at the top of The Vertical Ladder VD*, Traprain Law

As it happens, Monday was a great evening to be out at Traprain - as we had the whole place to ourselves and the weather was just lovely. I thought we had better start on something easy so a quick scan of the crag and the guidebook had me eying up The Vertical Ladder VD*. I had been doing a lot of reading of various climbing manuals and chatting to a few mates that climbed about Trading so I felt that I had a pretty good idea about what I had/needed to do with all the gear etc; the only problem being that I'd never really done it before and had very little experience at this sort of thing. But anyway, undeterred, off I went with my half rack of nuts and hexes clinking away on my harness. The climbing was actually very easy; it was trying to place the gear 'well' that was the problem. I found it interesting, as I was automatically drawn to try and use the bigger hexes in the bigger cracks; simply because I trusted them more than the smaller wires. Once I had figured out how the hexes worked and how they needed to be placed to 'cam', all was well and I was putting in loads of gear all over the shop in order to get a bit of practice in. I felt totally at ease and completely comfortable until I was almost at the very top of the climb. Straight above me and in front of me was a very large block that, quite frankly, seemed impassable! After a good few minutes of feeling around with my hands, I eventually found the good holds and was able to pull myself over the block. But I still thought it was a bit exposed and a great deal harder than the rest of the climb had been - scary stuff!

Abseiling down The Vertical Ladder VD*, Traprain Law

After a few moments to catch my breath, I managed to get two solid hex placements in as my two good anchors. A few screwgates and a couple of clove hitches later and I was ready to bring Emily up safely. We had practiced all this at home over the weekend so we were pretty comfortable with the set up and the calls. Not to my surprise: Emily flew up the climb and did a great job of pulling out the gear. As I thought, she wasn't too happy with going over the large block at the end so I suggested that she move to the left and finish up there instead; which she did in her usual style.

Abseiling at Traprain Law

Totally elated with our efforts, we wanted more! So we abseiled back down the crag and we quickly dispatched Shuffle VD (me leading once again). A brilliant first evening of Trading together and we were both beaming all the way back to Edinburgh.

With the good weather still holding, we went back on Wednesday we managed to tick: Spider Route 1 S, Spider Route 2 S, Brute S, Double Stretch S* and The M.S. Route HS**. We were a lot quicker completing the climbs as a team the second night and we both agreed that they didn't feel much harder than the first climb we did on Monday night but it was probably mostly down to our confidence growing. Very happy with how the week has gone and super excited to get out on more rock!

Abseiling at Traprain Law

Scald Law Ridge

We were just back from a great tour of the west coast of Scotland and to my astonishment, the good weather was still here in Edinburgh. My folks were still over from the IOM, so we wanted to make the most of the time with them too; this meant that we didn't want to travel too far to make the most of the weather. I had explored much of the Pentland Hills during my time in Edinburgh, but it struck me that I had never stood on top of Scald Law. Emily had never been up there either so she was keen on getting up there too.

Carnethy Hill summit looking northwest to Turnhouse Hill and Allermuir Hill

We had a bit of a long lie, so we didn't set off that early but we had parked up at the Flotterstone Ranger Centre by midday and were soon on our way with our light packs. Being such a nice day, there were plenty of local Edinburgh folk out enjoying the hills and we met many a dog walker and mountain biker on our way up the tarmac road through the woods. We headed off the road to the left and through the gate to take the large track along the edge of the wood before crossing the river to the left. Now on the path heading west, we were certainly climbing now; straight up the steep grassy (muddy) slopes of Turnhouse Hill. It was certainly good training, and we paused under a small clump of trees, halfway up, to catch our breath. Another push and we were soon at the top. On our way we passed a number of 'tourists' who had clearly underestimated the scale of the undertaking that lay ahead of them and were now clearly struggling and contemplating retreat. Our reward was spectacular views over Edinburgh in every direction, as it was a superbly clear afternoon.

Scald Law from Carnethy Hill, Pentland Hills

We headed along the ridge to the southwest and began to enjoy the easy walking on the soft, grassy turf. Great views down to the reservoirs to the north with the sun glistening on the chilly waters below. The gradient steepened a little to gain the summit of Carnethy Hill, where we looked across to the main event: Scald Law. We then had to loose over 120 metres in height to reach the bealach; much to Emily's disgust! It was a bit of a slog to the top but it wasn't long before we were triumphantly leaning on the trig point at the top and admiring more stunning views. We paused here for a bite, and while Emily munched down her piece, I ran over to bag South Black Hill just because... it was there.

Allermuir Hill above the Loganlea and Glencorse Reservoirs from Carnethy Hill, Pentland Hills

After a nice rest and some catching of rays, we headed back down to the bealach to pick up the path heading down to The Howe. On reaching the road, we really regretted not bringing our bikes and dropping them off here before starting out on the route. On a bike, we would have been back at the car in no time. Nevertheless, we had a very enjoyable stroll along the by the water on our way back to Flotterstone; no rush, and back just in time to meet up with the folks for dinner. What a day.

Scald Law summit trig, looking north, Pentland Hills

An Cliseam

So far, the rain had limited our adventures on Harris and Lewis but today was forecast to be mostly sunshine with patch showers - certainly the best weather so far. The morning was a hot one, so we took the opportunity to head to Luskentyre beach and enjoy the sun. Herbie and I had our eye on the Clisham horseshoe but the entire ridge had been in cloud all morning. However, while we were having lunch on the beach, we watched as the clouds suddenly lifted. It's funny how a simple glance between two people can mean so much; we were straight into action - gear sorted and in the car heading back towards Tarbert. Just as we approached the parking bay at the side of the A859, the clouds reappeared and the heavens opened on us.

Herbie, ready to go!

Undeterred, we merrily set off straight up the grassy slopes around Sron Carsacleit. Despite the rain, it was still rather warm; almost too warm for waterproofs... annoyingly warm. Herbie was super-excited, as this would be his first 'proper' summit in Scotland and he had been nagging me to take him up a hill for a while. As it was quite late in the day and the weather wasn't great, I knew we wouldn't be able to take in the entire horseshoe; instead we took the direct route.

Heading into the Clisham boulder field

Heading into the Clisham boulder field

We were going well and we gained a lot of height very quickly and we would have had a great view... but unfortunately we were well and truly in the mist and cloud. Just over half way up, the gradient steepened and we entered into the Clisham boulder field. It was a little tricky picking our way through the large rocks but it didn't slow us down too much, but some care was needed as the rocks were wet and slippery. On exiting the rocks, I picked up a well-trodden path heading straight up the last steep grassy section. The wind had picked up and we were being buffeted a little so it was hoods up and heads down for the final push to the top.

Soaked - glad to be at the top of Clisham

Clisham summit

Herbie enjoying the rain at the top of Clisham

Looking north from the summit of Clisham, Harris

Looking south from the summit of Clisham, Harris

We found a large drystone circle surrounding the trig point at the top - we also found more cloud, lots of it in fact. No view, but spirits were high; Herbie was well chuffed and I was proud that he had made it to the top with ease. We took shelter and had a quick snack and just before we started to set off back down to the car, the cloud started to lift and we were treated to spectacular views all around Harris and Lewis. The clouds stayed away for the descent back down to the road and we held the grins on our faces all the way down. A great day with great company.

Kinlochewe to Sconser

Today, there would be no climbing or walking or biking... only driving. Luckily, it was through some of the best scenery there is; so not so bad.

Beinn Eighe, Torridon

We left Kinlochewe shortly after 9am and headed along the single-track road to Torridon. Almost immediately, we were treated to a spectacular view of Beinn Eighe to our right - amazing. When we reached Torridon, we turned of the main road and headed through the village and continued past Beinn Alligin towards Diabeg. If you're not a confident driver and don't really have a head for heights, then this isn't the road for you - you have been warned! I thought it was great fun, however, and there is a viewpoint at the highest point of the road that gives spectacular views down over Loch Torridon. After taking in the views, we headed back to the main road and continued on towards Lochcarron, before turning off onto the tourist route around the Applecross Peninsula - another crazy road in places. Once at the headland, we were treated to great views across Skye and Raasay. Unfortunately the mighty Cuillin were engulfed in thick cloud on this occasion - gutted.

Loch Torridon from Upper Diabeg

Applecross Peninsula

Next was a quick lunch stop at the Applecross Inn for a pint of prawns and some crusty bread; highly recommended. Then it was time to head over the famous Bealach na Bà (once again: not for the fainthearted!). This I was most looking forward to, as I had heard so much about it. It didn't disappoint and the scenery is simply breathtaking - watch out for bikes! On our way down, Emily spotted some climbers on what looked like a huge multi-pitch route right up the nose of one of the buttresses. It looked simply awesome - one for the bucket list indeed.

Bealach na Bà

Bealach na Bà

Bealach na Bà

Bealach na Bà

Climbers at Bealach na Bà

Climbers at Bealach na Bà

The remainder of the drive was fairly uneventful but the scenery was still amazing and the rain had stayed away. Unfortunately, as we crossed over the Skye bridge, the Cuillin were still covered in cloud. We arrived at Sconser Lodge in time for an excellent dinner. Tomorrow evening we would take the Calmac ferry from Uig to Tarbert to explore Harris and Lewis.

Diabeg to Torridon from Chris McMorris on Vimeo.

Grass Crag, Gairloch

After a great start to the summer so far, my folks were due over for a couple of weeks holiday in July. They hadn't been very far north before so they fancied doing a bit of a road trip - with me as tour guide. Naturally, I was more than willing; as I never miss an excuse to go north for some outdoor action.
Our first day was spent driving to Kinlochewe from Glasgow; a lovely scenic drive but not forth mentioning here. We settled into our B+B and then made some plans for the next day. I was keen to show my folks Gairloch, as I knew it would be right up their street, and I was also keen to do some climbing (I had really got the bug after The Lakes, some bouldering and having just purchased some shiny gear). I had borrowed a copy of Scottish Rock - North and had just had a quick skim through the local area. Being new to trading, I didn't really want to try anything too daunting and I wasn't too clued up on anchors at the moment so I was a bit unsure about what we could do. But then I found Grass Crag, very close to Gairloch. A small sports crag with a short approach and some easier graded routes - perfect.

Grass Crag, Gairloch

After exploring Gairloch in the sun and taking in a hot chocolate from the excellent Mountain Coffee Company, Emily and I set off to find this crag. We parked at the tip entrance on the right hand side of the road, as you head out of Gairloch towards Poolewe. We grabbed our gear an set off due northwest over the boggy terrain. After around 15 minutes of bog-slogging, we spotted the shiny bolts glinting in the sunlight - we had arrived!

Grass Crag, Gairloch

We geared up and were soon ready to climb. We were focussed on the far right end of the crag - where the easy routes were. I set off leading Third and Final F5+ and it looked ok from the bottom. The rock was warm but rather harsh on the skin; fingertips especially. It was quite easy climbing and it didn't feel daunting in the slightest, considering it was my first sport lead in the outdoors. I was soon at the top and clipped into the lower-off... not to attempt the thread.

Grass Crag, Gairloch

I recently invested in a copy of Libby Peter's excellent book: Rock Climbing - Essential Skills and Techniques and I had read up on what to do at the top of a sport climb with a lower-off. It was fairly straightforward but I just had to concentrate to make sure that I did everything in the right order. But it was nae bother and I was soon securely attached to my figure-of-eight on a bite of the rope and being lowered safely to the ground with a huge grin on my face :-D
Next it was Emily's turn. She had never climbed outside before but was super-keen to give it a try and she flew up it in no time at all - I was most impressed. With the rope still up, I thought it would be rude not to give something harder a shot on a bottom rope so I had a bash at Kick Ass Yoga F6a+. This felt a lot harder than what we had just done and I struggled up to the top but ticked it nonetheless - happy with that.

Grass Crag, Gairloch

We packed up and headed back to the car and then met up with my folks at The Old Inn for some excellent grub. I was nice to share and reflect on our afternoon at the crag over good food and with good company. When we headed outside later on, we saw that the sun was heading towards the horizon and that it was going to be a spectacular sunset that evening. We headed back to Kinlochewe and I remembered from the Cycling Project last year, that there was a fantastic viewpoint just a wee bit up the road from Kinlochewe.
We made it there just in time to snap a few amazing pictures of the sunset - what an end to a great day.

Sunset over Loch Maree

First Trad Climbing Rack - New Shiny Stuff!

Today... the postman came!

After purchasing my first set of nuts during our trip to The Lakes and leading my first Trad route, I was keen to get more climbing done over the summer. For that, I was going to need a bit more than a set of wires...

I had a bit of extra cash and I figured it was a good investment in the long term so I started shopping around online for the best deals on a basic Trad rack. I shopped around, but I still couldn't beat TheOutdoorShop.com on price, and their service has always been excellent. I got the usual selection of Dyneema slings of various lengths, and I already had a set of Wild Country Classic Rock Set, so all I really had to get was some screwgates, hexes and quick draws.

In the end I went for a set of 10 Wild Country Wild Wire quick draws of various lengths. I went for these mainly for the price - they were the cheapest ones I could find by a well-known brand. Again, because of the price, I went for a set of Wild Country Rockcentric Dyneema hexes. For the screwgates, I opted for Wild Country Synergy Lite Keylock Screwgates. To rack everything, I also bought a 5 pack of the Wild Country Oxygen Straight Gates - mainly because of the price (cheap) but also because they were straight gates rather than wire gates so hopefully the nose wouldn't snag on anything in my inexperienced hands!

I'm happy with what I've purchased for now as a starting point, so now I'm super-excited to try it out on some real rock!

Blackford Bouldering

After an amazing week in The Lakes, I was super keen to climb as much as possible this summer. During the trip, Adam had suggested that I try a bit of bouldering at Blackford Glen on Agassiz Rock. Keen to make this my local crag, Emily and I set off after work with a couple of school bouldering mats into Blackford Glen. I had purchased a copy of the excellent guide book: Bouldering in Scotland and a bit of our local knowledge helped us find the crag in no time at all. The guide book and the ScottishClimbs page show diagrams of some of the illuminate (harder!) problems but I found them quite hard to pick out, to be honest. I stuck to the traverse problem: High Traverse F6b**

Agassiz Rock, Blackford

Agassiz Rock, Blackford

It was quite hard, I thought! Obviously not having climbed outside much wasn't doing me any favours, and the rock was quite harsh on the skin... to say the least! I had a few goes on it but couldn't quite get through the middle part, so I decided to split it up into two. The first section was easy and was mostly good jugs with polished footholds. The second half, from left to right, is on smaller holds and some slopers. I found the crux was moving from the high first section to the lower second part. I just couldn't make the link. Ah well... I would be back... hopefully frequently!

Climbing Hands, Blackford